The Des_Phemmes Fall Winter 2021/2022 collection revisits with the founding aesthetic of the brand: the 90s. It does so through the analisys of one of the most influential personalities of that decade: Kurt Cobain, icon of a style that, despite himself, marked the beginning of what in fashion, as in music, will take the name of ” Grunge “.
The research behind this collection, however, takes the gaze away from the imaginary of the “grungy” aesthetic. Instead kit tries to investigate the controversial soul of the man behind the legend, between the lines of an artistic production in “acid colors” that asserts His message of humanity on some issues that even today, 30 years later, are more than ever at the center of a heated confrontation: the right to be and appear exactly as one is.
Among the many pages of his diaries, there is one that is reminded by everyone: Come as you are. Then, between one correction and another, you notice a strange text line. An unpublished verse which is circled with a pen. “You said that I remind you of yourself tomorrow” A controversial sentence, in which time lines are overturned and different interpretations come up: Can there be someone or something that reminds you of who you will be tomorrow?
This concept leads to an instinctive and personal research that reconfirms the brand’s interest for essential and feminine silhouettes “but soaked in bleach”. The wardrobe is stained with acid nuances giving life to an eclectic look but with a radical attitude, in which layers and interesting combinations tell of a proud femininity in its most sensitive hemisphere, which does not give up the pleasure of an intellectual approach but with an ironic and irreverent sensuality.
Gray wool gabardine, the “strict” protagonist of 90s minimalism, meets the fluid and sensual silhouettes of a slip dress or a skirt with a deep slit, all decorated with Swarovski stones geometries. The concept of “mistake” is celebrated as an added value: stretch marks on oversized knitwear cardigans and decorated tops which are layered over tone-on-tone embroidered silk chiffon shirtdresses with macro sequins or ostrich feathers.
The mix of languages is reconfirmed and matches together the fragility of a couture inspired draped tulle skirt or a vibrant embroidered pencil skirts, with the formal male elegance of a wide shirt in white poplin or shetland knits in neutral colors.
An army of women is dressed in a camouflage jacquard fabric: small boxy jackets, miniskirts and mini dresses, reveal romantic couture volumes on the back part, combining the determination of the military motif with a radical touch of romanticism. Acid lime sequins flowers and iridescent Swarovski crystals subtract from this ideal “uniform” its gender value boosting in a strong sensuality.
A metaphorical journey in an aesthetic that does not want to change the signifier, but does not give up on seeking new meanings, which celebrates the feminine hemisphere the idea of fragility. An open invitation to embrace your own personality and the one of others, without censorship or preconceptions, pulling a thread between the first and last verse of the song: “Come as you are – I swear that I don’t have a gun.”
All images courtesy of Des Phemmes