Ten years is the usual measure of an era, and while ten collections hardly add up to a decade, it marks a special milestone for Calvin Luo.
This anniversary reminds us of how much Calvin has achieved since his first collection. He was 20 years old when he showed in New York for the first time. He entered the New York official calendar at 22 and the Paris official calendar at 24. His collections have habited legendary venues such as the Whitney Museum in New York and Maxim’s in Paris and are now finding creative ways to exist digitally.
The CALVINLUO Fall/Winter 2021 collection celebrates its icons while it ushers the brand into a new era: the iconic cropped blazer recurs in richer colors and fabrics, the simple and crisp long windbreaker is now embellished with a textural metal chain, the abstract sequin embroidery – borrowed from the oversized dresses of previous seasons – now adorns an every-day camisole, basic sweaters and stretch knit shirts vibrate in colored patchworks. The icons are emboldened.
The collection is all encompassing. Calvin ambitiously designed its staging to be all embracing.
Calvin Luo founded his eponymous label in 2014 following a two-year study at Parsons in New York City. The Shanghai-based label debuted on schedule at New York Fashion Week for SS’18 and Paris Fashion Week for SS’20. FW’21 marks the label’s third consecutive season in Paris.
Luo likes to put a spin on a temporal reference. His collections have explored the subcultures of ‘50s-era Americana, the dazzling ‘70s, a “Virgin Suicides” tainted ‘90s suburban America and New York city at the turn of the ‘90s. From these time vignettes always emerges a strong and focused story, which has helped to position himself in the foreground of a global fashion scene.
The past year has led Calvin to turn his attention to the future with introspective collections amplifying the voices of the strong women who inspire him. Calvin Luo is also the founder of Rouge Fashion Book, China’s first independent fashion and art magazine.
All images courtesy of Calvin Luo