LGN Louis-Gabriel Nouchi FALL WINTER 21/22
LIVE DANCE PERFORMANCE BY COMPANY SOHRAB CHITAN, MUSIC SARA ZINGER
PARIS FASHION WEEK
Finding its inspiration in Iiterature, LGN opens this seasons with a collection based on the novel The Trial by Franz Kafka. The book was published after the author’s death. It relates the tribulations of Joseph K. who awakes one morning, and for some obscure reason, is arrested and brought before justice.
The neutral recreate the ambiance of a cold, administrative office space. The blacks and beiges of the courtroom dress code are accompanied by nuances of camel and blue grey cinder. The smoky green recalls the neon lights overhanging of administrative waiting rooms. The forms are inspired by the pieces described in Kafka’s work: rigid suits, tidy vests, fluid white shirts. The cuts are generous and comfortable, so as to make more bearable the interminable wait in line. These new uniforms permit men and women to confront both in and outside the home. The elegant sweatpants are multi-purpose.
Knits, one of the label’s signature techniques, are inspired by the felts and carpets found in these spaces. Contrasting with the suppleness of the cloth, they allow for the design of structured garments of sportswear construction.
The asymmetric opening of the neckline, another of the label’s signature elements, recurs throughout the collection: incorporated into coats to shirts to even pants, the feature becomes functional and serves as pockets or as a way to access them. Beyond the pragmatic, it is an invitation to touch, as well as a witness to the absurd violence present in Kafka’s novel.
The prints harken back to the images of «film noir» as the lighting of window blinds adds a false perspective on the sturdier cats and oversized shirts, recalling clothes thrown over chairs and discolored by the sun. Under the circumstances of the current moment, troubled by the social repercussions which have disproportionately affected the world of the performing arts, Louis Gabriel Nouchi wishes to celebrate the world of dance through the choreography of Sohrab Chitan and the music of Sara singer. In a game of infinity mirrors, they construct an image of a crowd and return the human being and the living body to the center of our intentions.
All images courtesy of LGN Louis-Gabriel Nouchi