Clara Daguin Haute Couture Oracle collection Fall Winter 2021 -2022

For her newest presentation, Clara Daguin is showcasing 5 interactive luminous dresses, programmed in partnership with Google engineers. This is the first time Google ATAP (Advanced Technology and Projects) has entrusted a fashion designer with an artistic carte blanche, integrating connectivity into garments using the proprietary Jacquard by Google technology.

The performance centers around ORACLE, a digital palm reading given by model and iconic muse Axelle Doué. The intricate central piece worn by Axelle represents the universe, entire galaxies and constellations lighting up as the visitors approach their palms to her hands: she is wearing gloves embroidered with Jacquard by Google technology. The surrounding luminous dresses embodying the four elements— air, earth, water, and fire—come alive during the reading, with mirrors reflecting them into infinity. The pieces are crafted from diverse materials, both natural and synthetic. Well beyond typical textiles, Clara Daguin implements optical fibers, pleating, embroidered circuits, addressable LEDs, sculpted resin, home-grown alum stone crystals, Swarovski Elements, silk organza, microcontrollers and radio frequency modules.

Held in the Palais des Mirages (Hall of Mirrors) — a life-size kaleidoscope invented by engineer Eugène Hénard for the Paris Exposition Universelle of 1900 — the singular space is nestled inside the Musée Grévin, Paris’s wax museum. Adding to the aura of the presentation, guests will enjoy cocktails in the Column Hall, mingling with synthetic replicas of famous personalities.

Clara Daguin’s fashion practice and Jacquard by Google innovations echo one another as they both work towards creating hybrid interfaces, bridging the digital and physical worlds. ORACLE uses the invisible computing power of Jacquard technology, which is embroidered in the form of a thread into the gloves worn by Axelle, transforming them into touch sensors. The interaction detected by the gloves is then sent wirelessly to illuminate the surrounding dresses, influencing the intensity, movement and color of the light.

Matching the experimental nature of Clara Daguin’s Haute Couture presentation, three of the dresses from the collection are also available for digital-only dressing as custom fitted and AR looks via DRESSX. The Oracle, Earth and Water dresses can now be worn on photos and videos in the digital-only format on the DRESSX app. The two other dresses will be dropped in the digital format during the following weeks exclusively at DRESSX.

Descriptions of the dresses:

● Oracle: Universe crinoline embroidered with interactive galaxy LED lights forming luminous constellations, glass beads

● Earth: homegrown alum crystals, resin, fibre optic embroideries, silk pleats, glass beads

● Water: corsage dress with fibre optic embroideries, addressable LED lights, plexiglas, silk pleats, glass beads

● Fire: infinite addressable LED lights, silke pleats, glass beads

● Air: rotating peplum volume with embroidered micro LED lights on silk

About Jacquard by Google

With a vision of combining the personal and tactile elements of textiles with the immediacy and flexibility of digital services, Ivan Poupyrev joined Google ATAP in January 2014, and began working out the initial concepts behind Jacquard.

The first product incorporating the Jacquard platform – Levi’s Commuter Trucker Jacket – debuted during a demonstration on-stage at Google I/O 2016. In September 2017 the Levi’s® Commuter™ Trucker jacket with Jacquard by Google was put on sale in the US and got amazing feedback from the industry. Several times awarded, Jacquard is the first platform that enables brands, designers and creators to integrate connectivity and intelligence seamlessly into their products. Empowering the apparel industry to play an important part in the future of technology – one where it is ambient and integrated into our lives in a seamless and unobtrusive way. In 2019, Jacquard platform has extended its partnership with the launch of the Saint Laurent Cit-e backpack in September 2019, 4 new jackets with Levi’s in October 2019, a smart football product with adidas in March 2020 and Samsonite Konnect-i bag in October 2020.

Jacquard by Google Creative Experiment Program

We believe weaving invisible computing power in the fabric of the world could help us live in better harmony with our surroundings. Everything we do is dedicated to rethinking how we, as humans, interact with computers and then inventing the next generation of human-machine-interfaces (HMI) for ambient computing. We design, develop, and build advanced sensors and materials along with software and A.I. platforms to make ambient interactions organic and natural in order to deliver rich, helpful and engaging experiences everyday. This is why we decided to work at the intersection of design, science and technology. We collaborate with artists to glimpse into the future of interaction and imagine new possibilities for a technology that serves more human connections.

About Clara Daguin            

Clara Daguin was born in France and grew up in the Silicon Valley. She is based in Paris, France. Her artistic practice is an artisanal approach based on the association of traditional savoir-faire and technology, crafting “experiential” pieces merging embroidery and electronics. These interactive garments speak to the symbiosis of natural and artificial we experience daily, and question what it means to be human in a tech-driven world.

Using fashion as a medium allows the body to play a central role in understanding our evolving relationship to technology. The use of light as material gives substance to invisible energies, pulsations and waves inside of this body and around it. Light evokes the idea of the infinite, what is intangible and esoteric. Function follows form as much as form follows function; the circuits and embroidery are designed in tandem so that the technical specifications of one meet the graphic needs of the other. Here the “practically useful” is largely irrelevant. The experience is phenomenological and intention is placed on surprise, emotion, and contemplation. Clara Daguin collaborates with researchers, stylists, film-makers, artists and musicians. She was a finalist of the 2016 Hyeres International Fashion Festival and has been showing her work regularly during Paris Fashion week since.

All images courtesy of Clara Daguin

photographer Leo Cannone

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