This collection takes inspiration from the Latinamerican Arpilleras and Victorian cyclists, a true homage to Droguett’s family cycling history. As a way of reconnecting with her Chilean grandmother who she never met.
The Arpilleras (embroidered quilted patchwork) depicted the stories of vulnerable women in Latinamerica and artists such as Violeta Parra. The technique was humble and conscious by using available materials, in most of the cases leftovers from old clothes and fabric scraps. The Arpillera became a tool of protest and activism for women in the ’70s during dictatorships, and most importantly, a way of healing from trauma. The embroidered pieces in the collection are made with fabrics scraps from production, making use of this technique and reducing the fabric waste. The silhouettes and construction details are inspired by the history of women cyclists in Victorian times and the ingenious ways of modifying their wardrobe by using channels, straps, and buttons to adjust the lengths of their garments. Cycling enabled women to move freely modifying their wardrobe and subsequently their own identity and aspirations in society. A contemporary take on romantic puff sleeves with open backs and innovative cuts for mobility along with adjustable channels for skirts, trousers and dresses make every piece a versatile garment that can be worn in different ways.
Influenced by Jennifer’s family cycling history, her grandfather and father were both professional cyclists, supported by her grandmother who used to make food for the weekend races of the cycling team. The prints are made with collaged and hand embroidered family photos, portraits of Jennifer’s grandmother and father’s cycling days, using his racing number from world championships and old newspaper articles photos.
This season, developed in collaboration with Textile Designer Alice Timmis, the collection includes new jacquards using recycled cotton and fibres from post-consumer waste combined with decadent silks in bold stripes. Using natural fibres such as hemp, an ancient, sustainable, and very strong material, woven in linen jacquards from Northern Ireland and organic cotton drills for digital prints, printed in the UK. Partnered with textile start-up Esce-tex, the collection includes Tencel and recycled cotton jerseys from industry deadstock. The colours go from warm yellow and copper to colder blue hues, giving a vintage feel combined with a fresh and sporty vibe from the graphic prints.
Anciela presents their SS22 Spring Summer collection with a short film titled “Dreams of a Life” inspired by the story of Jennifer’s grandmother who died tragically under suspicious circumstances in Chile during the dictatorship in the ‘80s. As a homage, the film shows an imaginary dreamlike conversation between granddaughter and grandmother featuring a live performance by Latin singer Desta French to set the mood. In an effort to reconnect with her grandmother, this collection explores themes of cultural change and healing through art as the Arpilleras did for women in the ‘70s. Teaming up with London based Latin writer and activist Priscilla Hernandez from Growwithher who wrote the poems for the film, resulting in a profound collective piece channelling a nostalgic yet hopeful feminine energy.
All images courtesy of Anciela
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Photography Niklas Haze @niklashaze Art Direction & Styling Lorena Maza @lorenamazastyling Photography Assistant Miguel Fresneda Carrasco @pilotoclandestino Talent Jasmine Ambowode @jasmineambowode Hair Tony & Guy @tonyandguyworld Make-up Rebecca Hampson @rebeccahampsonmakeup Make-up Assistant Sian Curtain @siancurtainmakeup