For the Y/Project Fall-Winter 2022-2023 collection, Glenn Martens continues his work around a silhouette in tune with the times, started on his arrival at the direction of the creation of the French brand nine years ago. Rather than imposing a uniform, he offers a set of white cards. Like some key elements of the Y/Project wardrobe: knits with several collars, which leave the choice to the who wears it, or the inlays of wire in stoles, handbags, denim or shearling jackets which are thus convertible.
This January 26, Glenn Martens will present a collection for the fashion house Jean Paul Gautier. This link continues with a collaboration between Y/Project and the line of ready-to-wear from the name of the French couturier. A coherent marriage, since he had barely arrived in Paris when Glenn Martens made his debut in the house of Jean Paul Gaultier. Above all, the Belgian designer fed on the designer’s spirit of derision.
Optical Illusion of naked bodies are printed on denim pants or jackets. On a sweater with masculine forms, appears a pair of breasts. On a miniskirt, a male sex. The motifs and genres overlap, especially in the pieces “Wrapped”, layers of tulle sewn over costumes. Everything mixes: the Y/Project collection, the collaboration with Jean Paul Gaultier and the Evergreen line, launched in 2021, a range of eco-responsible parts constantly renewed and which enriched each season with new models.
The colors of the sweaters are bright, the down jackets are very wide. A buttoning allows a dress with spaghetti straps to take on a classic or sassy shape. As toto “Peel Off” pieces, we can remove layers and transform the silhouette. For example, a denim jacket becomes a crop top. For the first time, logos appear, inscribed on a clip that deconstructs the garment. Other innovation: a form of trousers, the Banana, with a rounded cut.
As for the shoes, we find the emblematic models of Y/Project, especially the Lobster pumps, with toes in the shape of crustacean claws. And some earrings are metallic flowers with adjustable petals. As summarized Glenn Martens: “Why not have fun?
All images courtesy of Y/Project
PR Agency Lucien Pages Communication