Motifs from a theatre costume archive have been applied to a wardrobe of smart and modern menswear staples for the fall winter 2022 collection from Stefan Cooke and Jake Burt.

Historical referencing and costume details have been updated with attention to textiles.

Trompe l’œil is approached in a modern way through denim and knitwear, with mock neck fronts playing a starring role.
Constructive undergarments, such as shoulder pads and bustles, are exposed and demonstrate the repeated customised and re-fitted elements that are found in the costume archive.

It’s a fitted silhouette. Sexy. Casual. Sharp. Understated. The boy is on his way out.

Techniques include updated slashed knitwear, cut-into pleating, denim cording, handpainted flower embellishments, sequin-embedded wool outerwear and heavy crochet.

Colours contrast: biro navy, vibrating egg yolk yellow, candy pink, sky grey, against mostly black or cream. Accessories include decorated bowling shoes, strappy jazz flats and brogues; and trapped sequin pouches or embellished handbags.

All images courtesy of Stefan Cooke
CREDITS: Runway stills
Publications – Haydon Perrior: Thomas De Cruz Media Ltd
Social – @haydonperrior for @thomasdecruzmedia
styling Alice Goddard @ Rep-Ltd hair Dexter Johnson & Sam Elliot @ Toni & Guy make-up Athena Paginton @ Future Rep using Verso Skincare casting Piotr Chamier @ Streeters music Lukas Heerich art direction Bruce Usher show production Blondstein p.r. A.I. words Jessica Bumpus