The new CALCATERRA collection for fall-winter 2022/23 is inspired by the solar eclipse, with its slow and mysterious movements of shadow and light.
“This astronomical phenomenon has always enchanted and drawn all living creatures, as if time during those interminable moments were a mysterious voice that tells us to keep watching, with the same sense of amazement, what happens when the shadow of the moon obscures the light of the sun. My idea for the entire collection is based on this change, on the luminous form created by the total obscuring of the sun. During a solar eclipse, the form shifts as time passes: the sun and the moon create silhouettes and shapes, the figures evolve into unexpected proportions.” Daniele Calcaterra.
This new perspective redesigns the shoulders of jackets and coats, extravagantly amplifying their proportions until they are allowed to collapse on the body, redesigning that part of the anatomy. The choice of fabrics creates a complete expressive motif, a balance between art and physical dynamism, like the raw wool with its intentionally stiff feel, combined with sections that use technical duchesse satin for maxi-coats with a tuxedo look, or tone-on-tone jacquards that use a macro floral fil coupé fabric for dresses and down capes. The calibrated balance of “non-color” – somewhere between black, blue, brown and gray – is occasionally interrupted by the purest lunar white.
For Calcaterra, the next fall/winter season is once again a personal and intimate expression, guided by the emotional impact of his creative gesture, the visual narrative of an increasingly strong and contemporary identity through clothing, as seen through his eyes.

All images courtesy of Calcaterra
PR Agency Studio Tiss
Soundtrack // Thomas Costantin Hair // Tommaso Incamicia @myplacehairstudio Make-up // Augusto Picerni @wmmanagement using Make-Up Forever