It was the most lingeringly memorable show of Anthony Vaccarello’s career. Sophisticated, sinuous, simple: it had almost a throwback ’90s Belgian coolness about its long, narrowly languid silhouettes, the covered arms, the subtly strict use of color.

What will be remembered most? Purely the sight of a woman in a long, silvery bias-cut dress, with a perfect black low-buttoned double-breasted black peacoat over it, her hands thrust into the pockets. She opened the show. And then the line-up of flawless black tuxedos and a single, narrow black tux coat which came at the end.

All images courtesy of Saint Laurent / gorunway / Alessandro Lucioni

Complete text from Vogue