Calvin Luo Fall/Winter 2022 Collection present LE SMOKING at Paris Fashion Week

Calvin Luo dived into the works of Helmut Newton to conceptualize his Fall/Winter 2022 Womenswear and Menswear Collection.

“I think a fashion photograph is almost a social document that will take you back. The older it gets, the more interesting it is. It shows you how people lived. In my pictures, anyway.” • Helmut Newton

“Le Smoking”, one of the photographer’s most emblematic image, was taken in a dusty Parisian alleyway (rue Aubriot) in pure elegant simplicity that remains the epitome of chic to this day.

It is documented that Newton asked Vikebe Knudsen (the model) to incarnate a familiar figure in 19th century French art: the dandy, who “has no profession other than elegance”, according to Beaudelaire. Le Smoking would not only mark a shift in fashion, but in power.

In the words of Pierre Bergé “It is a well-known fact that Chanel gave women their freedom; years later Saint Laurent brought them power.”

Calvin asked himself what the same elegance and power would look like today. With his collection film titled “LE NOIR”, Calvin plumbs into “Le Smoking” almost half a century later and pays homage to Paris (again) whose iconic beauty has remained unchanged by the passing of time.

With a mainly black, white, and grey collection, CALVINLUO keeps faith with the emblematic image but introduces timely details that anchor his vision in modernity: Crisp and deconstructed tailoring, asymmetric construction patterns, his now signature significant metalware.

And while le smoking (the tux) is not a groundbreaker nowadays, Calvin’s supplemental choices convey Newton’s rule breaking attitude: Gender fluid sport tanks, denim, masculine belts.

His styling choices render his vision into the present: butterfly punk jewelry (a nod to the CALVINLUO SS22 collection), black lipstick, e-cigarettes, and a purposeful choice to pair the entire collection with a new signature high and lop top square toe sneaker.

Calvin’s love for Paris is no secret – tributes and homages are recurrent in his work – but this collection hits different. This is now the 5th season CALVINLUO shows digitally. His film “LE NOIR” transports the collection to a fabled Paris; wishful thinking that next season he will be back in person.

All images courtesy of Calvin Luo

STARRING Aniki Lin, Diarra Samb, Topsy, Yana Van Ginneken, Sherry Shi, AmamAbit, Grace Quaye, Eny Jaki, Katya Vladykina, Maja Mihelic, Ashton Day, SokhneNiane, Isis Den Adel, Beyonce Ambrose, Priscilla Cheseaux, Wang Chenming, Naman, DaanDuez, BangaliDrammeh, Lucas Dermont,Ole Dautzenberg FASHION COMMISSIONNER Dora Fung STYLIST Jodie Barnes CASTING DIRECTOR David Chen ORIGINAL SOUNDTRACK  DJ Cam PRODUCER Julie Gonssard DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY Boris Abaza STEADICAM OPERATOR Mathieu Caudroy STYLIST ASSISTANTS Marco Ven, Joseph Ecorchard, Alexis Landolfi SEAMSTRESSES  Louise Poet,Lucienne MAKE UP ARTIST Anthony Preel MAKE UP ASSISTANTS Azusa Kumakura, Marie Guillon, Yoriko Fujita, Hind Sousan, Yusaku Nakahara MAKE UP AGENT Matthieu Bourdet HAIR STYLIST Franziska Presche HAIR STYLIST ASSISTANTS Brandon Borowski, Attila Kenyeres, MyukoNakae, Tsuyoshi Tamai, Yi-Han Jen HAIR STYLIST AGENT Ayesha Arefin MANICURIST HuberteCésarion MANICURIST ASSISTANTS Treacy Patnelli, Yana Marquise, Fabienne Obertan, Alexia  Bensimon MANICURIST AGENTMarie-France Thavonekham 1st AC CAMERA 1  Malek Krimed 1st AC CAMERA 2 David Foquin 2nd AC CAMERA 1 Aurélie Temmerman 2nd AC CAMERA 2 Emilie Razai DIT ESSAYS Thomas Briant DIT Audrey Samson KEY GRIP Benjamin Renaud GRIP Benjamin Rame LINE PRODUCER Grégoire Ohnet PRODUCTION COORDINATOR Audrey Carlos PRODUCER ASSISTANT Charlotte Ermine 1st AD  Lola Bernard 2nd AD Lino Merival LOCATION SCOUT Dimitri Chalazonitis ASSISTANT UNIT MANAGER  Clément Lepoix WARDROBE TRUCK DRIVER Pablo Mandel RUNNERS Valentin Achilli, Anne Hélène Kerner, Lise Jullien, Juliette Antor, Ugo Morel DRIVERS Maxime Bédue, Jim Thomasson, Pierre Boussiquet, Flavien Cheval COVID NURSE Anice Ferrah FILM PRODUCTION WOMANRAY Marieke Tricoire POST PRODUCTION NIGHTSHIFT HEAD OF POSTPRODUCTION Olivia Farges POSTPRODUCER Camille Gérard EDITOR Benjamin Ricart COLORIST Maxime Mourey PR AGENCY REP AGENCY NEW YORK

© CALVIN LUO 2022