Balmain Spring 2023, Olivier Rousteing as artistic and creative director of Balmain House create The Renaissance theme for this season.
Balmain Spring 2023 Notes from Olivier Rousteing :
After France’s summer of unending heatwaves, horrific droughts, rampant forest fires and freakish storms—all direct results of our failure to address the dangers of global warming—I’m certain that I was not the only one asking fundamental questions about the possible dystopian future awaiting us.
And, if we want some better answers to those existential questions, now seems the time to get serious about a reboot. Relying on science and guided by our love for this endangered planet, we need to begin focusing on changes that could enable a moment of rebirth. Yes, I know that the idea of a rebirth may sound impossible—but don’t forget, we’ve done it before.
Rebirth, in French, is renaissance. And, as we all learned in school, the greatest geniuses of the Renaissance—those true “Renaissance Men”—managed to meld together radical advances in science with rediscoveries of abandoned classical wisdom to fundamentally transform their age with completely new ways of thinking and creating. They helped push each member of society—along with society itself—toward essential reforms, allowing for a massive jolt toward progress that still wows us today, many centuries later.
So, reflecting on our crucial need for change during this summer of despair somehow managed to push me into rediscovering and celebrating the hope, beauty, and advancements of the Renaissance. Museums and my old school textbooks helped reacquaint me with some of that era’s many fantastic leaps forward in science, painting, music, and sculpture. And, not all that surprisingly, while those past achievements and masterpieces were inspiring me with their daring and beauty, they ultimately worked their way into my sketches for today’s runway. So, it’s very easy to spot this collection’s many patterns, details and silhouettes that channel the spirit, art and sculpture of that golden age’s greatest thinkers.
Speaking of needed changes and hoped-for rebirths—after this summer, it’s even more clear that our industry should be pushing much more forcefully for fundamental transformations.
We have the power to be truly transparent, move past greenwashing and finally allow consumers to make informed choices. Joining together, we could explore new possibilities of reducing waste, water pollution, soil damage and carbon emissions at every step of production. Those are objectives that my team and I have been trying to meet here at Balmain—and although, of course, I cannot say that our Fall 2022 collection is 100% sustainable, I am pleased to note that Balmain continues to make steady progress towards our goals, with a very large percentage of this collection relying on earth-friendly fabrics (FSC-and Ecovero-certified viscose and sustainable Italian linens).
You will also notice that many of today’s designs are crafted from remarkable raw, undyed fabrics (helping to avoid water pollution from chemical dyes). Obviously, we all have a long way to go—but my team and I have resolved that we will not be daunted by the size of the challenge ahead of us. We will continue to do everything that we can do now and in the future. For example, by next season, we will have finalized our transition to certified sustainable wool for the majority of the house’s collections —helping ensure that many Balmain signatures, including our iconic Six-Button Blazer, will be as sustainable as they are beautiful, the collection of Balmain Spring 2023.
The need to protect this planet is also reflected in this collection’s many designs inspired by that endangered beauty. But, instead of going for an expected rusticity or minimalism, we’ve aimed to explore and celebrate the fascinating rich and complex refinement of the natural world. Our Balmain Atelier artisans made it all possible, with their impressive work on the many couture-inspired elements. I could not be happier with their incredible quilting, draping, braiding, patchwork, weaving and master sculpting. And their incredible artistry helps underline another key element of any possible future reboot for fashion. Today, as fast-fashion fills our landfills, there is definitely something to be said for timeless designs, created to last a lifetime—after all, perhaps the most sustainable item is the one that won’t be quickly discarded.
Over the past weeks, as we worked on today’s collection and runway, I guess it was the Renaissance theme that pushed me to keep referring to this presentation as our symphony.
And, if it wasn’t for the fact that Dvořák had already grabbed the name, I definitely would have called it our “New World Symphony.” For this is a composition blending my European heritage and outlook with the beauty and traditions of Africa—reflecting today’s diverse and powerful new world, where rebirth and fresh possibilities are possible.
Olivier Rousteing, Paris
BALMAIN MENSWEAR
BALMAIN WOMENSWEAR
About Balmain
More than 75 years ago, when Pierre Balmain first introduced his “New French Style,” it immediately became clear to all that his eponymous house was offering a distinctly fresh, bold, and feminine conception of haute couture, one which broke with many of the well-established conventions of the era. His audaciousness paid off. Pierre Balmain became one of the handful of young French talents who ushered in the mid-century golden age of couture and helped to re-establish Paris as the world’s fashion capital.
Since 2011, Balmain Creative Director Olivier Rousteing has been inventively building upon Pierre Balmain’s extraordinary legacy, while always remaining true to his own determination to design clothes that reflect the way his inclusive, powerful, and global Balmain Army wishes to live today. The result is a unique and instantly recognizable Balmain silhouette, style and attitude that highlights the singular craftsmanship of the house’s celebrated ate liers, while consistently referencing a rich Parisian heritage.
All images Balmain Spring 2023 of Balmain
PR Agency KCD World Wide