Roksanda Spring Summer 2023 at London Fashion Week

Roksanda Spring Summer 2023, The 21st Serpentine Pavilion ‘Black Chapel’ designed by Theaster Gates unleashes the unexpected yet significant emotions that come with a reflection on death. Entering the darkness, creating within it a spiritual sense of coming out of it. This was the perfect setting for Roksanda’s own meditative journey.

Taking the symbol of roses with all its meanings symbolism and above all dualities. Roses are appointed at births, taken to weddings, and put on a grave. Dresses have been framed with falling black ribbons, fluid and feminine yet disturbing, interrupting the shape of something serious.

Introducing new interpretations of darkness and light with a necessity to be protected and sheltered, recurring narratives have been solidified through upcycled fabrications and toiles, forming new, abstract silhouettes creating otherworldly rose-like constructions emphasising escapism and graphic play.

Informing this artistic element is the longstanding inspiration drawn from the works of the female visual artist Pipilotti Rist. Her bold, exquisite use of colour and transformative expression shine through the impactful printmaking seen throughout the collection of Roksanda Spring Summer 2023.

Mirroring the artist’s explorative video and art installations are the surreal, intimate, and abstract movements liberating the preoccupations with the female body.

Delicate dresses in silk satin are elevated through evolving hemlines, necklines, and draping. Draped upon another, the dresses evolve with layers of protection all arranged by hand at the ROKSANDA studio. The soft elements of silk, satin and ribbon coalesce to create this layered effect, with the support of voluminous found objects made from recycled fabrics from previous creations to complete the frame.

Each garment shows fractions of blank space, its unique process and its own story transcending as the moving silhouettes create one-of-a-kind constructions allowing moments of spontaneity.

Tailoring and outerwear are powerful and structural through elements of graphic bonding while featuring an interaction of gentle cashmere, creating its own narrative with black borders of painterly lines as they move across the body.

Deconstructed pocket detailing and gathered hemlines bring a sharp masculine element of art, a constant play of utilitarian versus couture, closed with luxurious finishes.

Abstract hats act as exaggerated interpretations of the constructions within the collection of Roksanda SS23, custom designed by Noel Stewart. Footwear by Acupuncture handmade in soft Napa leather, brightened with ROKSANDA’s signature colours throughout.

Colours Black, Bright, Orange, Carmine, Coral, Crimson, Daffodil, Elderflower, Forest, Fuschia, Ivory Stripe, Lime, Merlot, Orchid, Peony Stone, Putty, Rose, Slate, Sunflower, Tropics

Fabrics Cotton Silk Stripe, Crushed/printed soft taffeta, Jacquard, Lightweight wool tailoring, Linen Tailoring, Organic sustainable cottons, Organza/ Silk Satin, Recycled Polyester Taffeta, Sandwashed Silk Satin.