DENZILPATRICK Fall Winter 2023 – 2024 at Paris Fashion Menswear presents ‘All Dressed Up and Somewhere To Go’
The designer Daniel Gayle explores masculine identity and celebrate the enduring image of the matriarchal figures in his heart. The collection was in collaboration with Ecopel, faux-fur artisans and Christian Louboutin for the shoes.
To stand on a precipice , at a single point in time, where a son can shed a masculine identity and celebrate the enduring image of the matriarchal figures in his heart. To take this desire from its secret place and bring it outside, into the most public parts of his world. And so, the iconic sartorilism of London subcultures can retreat to a private corner of the soul, where a more nuanced, revealing identity might be expressed. All dressed up & somewhere to go.
Upon discovering of an image of Daniel’s mother on the streets of Brixton during the 1980 riots, he revisited stories of the family’s home, 358 Brixton Road . Recalling the clash of personalities that ran through the house; sons, daughters, mothers, grandmothers.
From the street savvy swagger of Brixton boys to the old-fashioned glamour of a mother dressing up for an evening out. This sparked an impulse to create conversations between generations and genders that may not have been possible before.
In admiration both for the Mod-tailoring of his young uncles and the polished elegance of his grandmother and great grandmother, both aesthetics are celebrated as they become emancipated into a new personality.
Outside the home, we set the scene on Brixton market in twilight hours, inspired by characters in the works of London street photographers, in particular ’82 London by Sunill Gipta and Down The Lane by Tom Hunter. From here, silhouettes are built from wardrobe architypes: the tailored overcoat, the bomber, the perfect jean, the pea coat, the button-down shirt. But with proportions gently adjusted: the shoulder wider, the waist higher, the body more cropped. All in the aim to allow more freedom of expression.
Daniel’s history as dancer finds itself embedded within the story of each collection. DENZILPATRICK Fall Winter 2023 – 2024 sees garments cut away from and closer to the body; revealing and shaping sensual areas. Seen in the super-slim dance pant, cut in a black high-twist crepe or the brushed wool jersey backless tops. Glimmers of Michael Clarke and his dance company influence this colour play and silhouette.
A patch pocket bomber, an ode to the uniform of the market worker, is cut in a technical gabardine black, and Brixton blue. The same gabardine is used across a tailored training top and matching jog pant; a nod to sports dressing but updated for the streets of today. A brushed wool check is realised in a sharp cropped blouson, paired with recycled cotton denim pants, laser etched with a garter design, a moment of unexpected kink. Mechanical-gingham check, woven using recycled polyester yarns, pays reference to the button-down shirts of London’s tribes of the late 1970’s, cut into a cropped blousons and tailored jogger.
A cluster of busy logos and signs, the Electric Avenue print takes you on dash through South London’s Caribbean mecca. Printed onto organic cotton poplin button-down shirts, this rich graphic is also showcased in brushed mohair deep-V pullover and vest.
Classic British carpet design is replicated onto a plush velvet coating in the original ruby red and cut into a double-breasted pea coat. The print is also seen in a cameo pink, cut into a Ska-inspired tailored jacket.
Dressing-Up is explored across a series of evening looks for DENZILPATRICK Fall Winter 2023 – 2024. Black wool twill jackets and pleat front tapered pants are paired with Chantilly lace wrap tunics, fastened at the waist with a borrowed earring, part of a story of reclaimed jewellery used to adorn the collection. The same jewellery is scattered across a sleeveless pullover in soft cameo-pink and worn with sumptuous washed lambswool knitwear. Duchess satin is cut into sports-inspired shapes, like woven training tops and tailored jog pants, resulting in a fresh proposal of glamour.
We partnered with Ecopel, faux-fur artisans, to tell this season’s story. Using only deadstock, we selected a long-haired article for its instant reminder of 1940’s glamour and decadence; the stars of screen such Greta Garbo and Rita Hayworth, adored by Daniel’s great-grandmother. In tribute to these Hollywood sirens Daniel worked with London-based milliner James Pink.
Together, they established a shape that echoes that era of allure, but also the needs of the city; the peaked crushed fez. Cut in variations of duchesse satin, velvet and gabardine, each piece finished with rigid top-stitched peak and a delicate veil.
Thank you to Christian Louboutin, who this season generously provided the footwear. Wanting to exude both craftsmanship and glamour, we found the perfect partner and style to showcase the dressing-up.
All images DENZILPATRICK Fall Winter 2023 – 2024 by DENZILPATRICK
PR Agency Autrement PR Paris