Schiaparelli Haute Couture Fall Winter 2023

Schiaparelli Haute Couture Fall Winter 2023 – 2024 Collection … AND THE ARTISTS. After the last Season Schiaparelli’s controversial look, this season Schiaparelli Haute Couture punch and beat the opening Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture

After last season, which was about reducing each look to something concise and even sometimes arresting, my instinct here was to build the collection in a different way, for a collection that adventures, explores, and dares. One that feels more organic, more sensual, more impromptu. I found freedom in separates—a white shirt, perfect pants, enormous puffer coats and even knitwear basics like cardigans and tube skirts. I wanted to make an impossible wardrobe—impossible not because it’s not wearable, but because it’s so extraordinary, a Surrealist’s interpretation of a woman’s essential closet. There’s a sense of freedom, of disobedience; these are pieces a woman can assemble however she wants; that feeling of transgression and spontaneity she should experience when she does so is one I felt as well when I was creating them—most of the ‘looks’ you see here were put together in the days leading up to this show, as opposed to head to toe formulas that have been labored over for months. This approach felt like a revelation.

“Every spirit builds itself a house; and beyond its house, a world; and beyond its world a heaven. Know then, that the world exists for you: build, therefore, your own world.” – Ralph Waldo Emerson

Uniting everything is Schiaparelli’s long connection to art and artists – their daring, their color, their process. More than any other Maison, Schiaparelli has always been in conversation with art: one form of art talking to and inspired by another. In this collection, each piece has been somehow inspired by an artist, either one of Elsa’s time, or mid-century, or of our own. We hand-painted a woman’s body with brushwork inspired by Lucian Freud, and then transferred that image to a stretch silk body stocking, where each brushstroke was rendered in shimmering paillettes. The sculptor Jack Whitten’s mirrored mosaic pieces gave birth to a broken-mirror stretch cardigan and skirt. A leather cigarette box that trims a ball gown skirt is an homage to Sarah Lucas, and the deep blue pebble-like beads and powder that cover a multitude of surfaces are a nod to Yves Klein, but also to Miro’s illustrations for children. Elsewhere in the collection are tributes to Dali – those surrealist sunrises giving birth to a multitude of vibrant color degradé’s, Matisse (not his work, but the palm fronds at the hotel Regina, now in black long haired shearling as a fantastic faux – coat), and even a white marble Venus has made her way onto a winter white melton coat. Even the walls of Lucian Freud’s London studio home inspired the dramatic chaos of painterly brushwork on an oversized white laminated puffer. This collection has been so heavily inspired by the agony and ecstasy of creation—but still offers clothes for a woman to love for a lifetime.

That combination of transgression and wit extends to this season’s accessories as well: Giacometti’s monumental sculptures are reinterpreted here as skinny drops of stone-capped gold, informing a new chapter of bijoux. Claude Lalanne’s beloved moldings inspired massive brooches and cuffs, for which I used my own house plants: I’d cut off a leaf, bring it in, and have it cast in metal, imposing within it some of our artisans’ faces from the studio. There are also Mountains of wooden bijoux – the first time for us. Burl wood hands, plaster white lobsters, and the Inauguration Dove, our symbol and promise of hope, dipped in gilded 24K gold leaf.

And our new Schiap bag is re-thought too, either hand-painted in multicolored alligator, or buried under piles of lightweight wooden beads, or its signature ‘trapunto’ technique echoed in white strands of plaster beads and bugle beaded measuring tapes. The toe shoes and the keyhole shoes are reduced to their most ‘barely-there’ essentialism, with the maison’s signature measuring tape running up the bag of the leg, a detail we will carry into the future lines of footwear.

We live and create fashion in a time when creativity, internet-breaks, and celebrity gags come at us weekly, daily, and now by the hour. Some of these aren’t even created by human hands or minds. Most all of them are forgotten by tomorrow. It’s why I wanted this collection to be aggressively, unmistakably human – and to be rooted in artistic references that feel timeless. To dress, decorate, but most importantly, to create, is as rudimentary as any instinct we have.

Going into the unknown, when creative expression and fame feels available to any and all, at least for a moment, we wonder: What can break through? For our Maison, it is the powrudimentaryer of design, the power of our artisans, and the power of the human hand at work.

Daniel Roseberry

Details of Schiaparelli Haute Couture Fall Winter 2023 – 2024 Collection

Look 1 Black woollen jacket with white poplin inserts at collar and cuffs, embellished with deconstructed shawl collar and flared sleeves. Asymmetrical wave skirt in rigid black corset canvas. Gold metal apple accessory with molded ear adorned with rhinestone piercing.

Look 2 Long, wide-sleeved coat in cream compact wool embellished with trompe-l’œil body embroidery in contrasting black micro-beads. Black washed faille train with tonal triple organza ruffles of extreme volume that cascade endlessly.

Look 3 Long two-material coat in white wool with collar and wide sleeves in ivory washed faille enhanced by a twirling collar in contrasting black felt. Faux black double washed satin-pants with frayed, hand-combed hem. Oversized drawstring snood in ivory washed faille and triple organdy that turns into a sleeve.

Look 4 Mid-length bi-material wide-sleeved coat in faux black compact wool enhanced with an oversized collar in ivory goat hair closed by a hammered gold brass belt buckle inlaid with a molded ear decorated with rhinestone piercings. Gold-plated metal brooch inlaid with molded leaf and fingers elements embellished with rhinestone piercings. Filament earring in hand-crafted raw gold metal with inlaid crystal.

Look 5 Strapless long dress with plunging neckline in bronze washed double satin. Pair of puffy sleeves with oversized volume. The dress is worn over pants in ebony washed double satin with fringed, hand-combed hem. Pair of asymmetrical filament earrings in raw hand-crafted gold metal with inlaid crystals.

Look 6 Oversized drawstring snood in ivory washed faille and triple organdi that turns into a sleeve. It is worn over a bi-material corset in nude tulle and satin, laced up at the back with gold brass eyelets. Extra-large black double-satin trapeze pants with belly-revealing extreme low-cut. Earring in gilded metal, hand-crafted with natural pearl inlay.

Look 7 Bi-material corset in bronze satin and tulle laced up at back with gold brass eyelets and extra-wide trapeze pants in thick bronze velvet twill enhanced by a belly-revealing “unbuttoned” low-cut. Gold-plated metal cuff inlaid with molded half-face and ear elements embellished with rhinestone piercings. Choker necklace in silver-plated metal inlaid with molded elements of leaf and ear embellished with rhinestone piercings and cultured pearl.

Look 8 Oversized shawl-collared short coat with flared sleeves in brown felt fastened with a gold metal brooch inlaid with a molded leaf and mouth decorated with rhinestone piercings. It is paired with extra-large black duchesse satin trapeze pants enhanced by a frayed, hand-combed hem. Earring in handcrafted raw gold-plated brass with inlaid crystal. Necklace with hand-gilded wooden elements. Wood and rhinestone cuff bracelet.

Look 9 Dress in nude lace with corseted bustier in tonal openwork satin. Molded hand and spiral resin accessory.

Look 10 Bi-material off-shoulder long dress in sheer, draped black jersey over a tulle pleat and nude satin bra. The dress is openworked in the shape of a signature keyhole revealing the belly button. Leather trompe-l’œil cigarette accessory. Abstract hand-made and hand-painted plaster cuff.

Look 11 Ultra-short off-shoulder tailored jacket in black wool crepe with tonal velvet lapel and stretch velvet hoops mini-skirt with extreme low-cut revealing the belly.

Look 12 Off-shoulder ultra-cropped blouse in ivory washed faille with gathered sleeves, whose hemline mirrors that of the puffed and irregularly draped skirt in ecru taffeta with integrated underwire casing.

Look 13 Wave skirt in rigid corset canvas, hand-painted in electric blue and touches of green. Gold-plated metal necklace inlaid with molded leaf and face elements with rhinestone piercings and teardrop details of Schiaparelli Haute Couture Fall Winter 2023.

Look 14 Extreme volume coat in ivory mohair fringes. Oversized necklace in wooden beads, closed with a replica of the hands of Pascal and Pascaline, Schiap’s favorite models.

Look 15 Stretch puzzle dress crocheted from irregular, multicolored, hand-painted elements and embellished with rhinestones to create a trompe-l’œil reproduction of a woman’s body. Rhinestones pendant earrings.

Look 16 Rigid palmtree set with black goat hair mounted on a metal frame. Overisze faux black hand-painted necklace.

Look 17 Sleeveless long tuxedo dress in black silk wool enhanced with a deconstructed shawl collar, a side slit and a genuine hydrangea flower brooch cast in white gold and a large hot silver brass safety pin. Oval bracelet in gilded metal inlaid with molded elements of a woman’s bust and breasts embellished with rhinestone piercings.

Look 18 Overtight cardigan in black jersey knit, held in place by bijoux buttons made of genuine hydrangea flowers cast in yellow gold. It is paired with a short, wave asymmetrical skirt entirely embroidered with black glass beads. Corset belt in black elastic bands laced at back. Gold metal cuff inlaid with a molded half-face and ear decorated with rhinestone piercings.

Look 19 Extreme swelling oversized coat made from a mosaic of over 12,000 hand-painted mirror-effect leather rectangles enhanced with an oversized collar. Pair of snail-shaped gold-plated and rhinestone earrings, with hand-crafted rhinestone-set balls. Oversize pearls and wood beads and signature doves necklaces gilded with gold leaf.

Look 20 Miniskirt embroidered with liquid-effect black glass tubes paire with a mirrored leaf and rhinestones bib inspired by one of Elsa Schiaparelli’s archival jacket fastened by a velvet ribbon embroidered with the signature Measuring tape on the back. Gold metal cuff inlaid with molded half-face and ear elements embellished with rhinestone piercings.

Look 21 Deconstructed cape coat with extreme volume created in a patchwork of over 10 000 rectangles of entirely hand-painted white leather. Asymmetrical abstract dangle earring in silvered gold metal and rhinestones, handmade and hand-painted in red.

Look 22 Sleeveless turtleneck in black jersey inlaid with a trompe-l’œil breast molded in a black hand-painted fabric. It is worn with a high-waisted skirt entirely embroidered with glass tubes in vibrant multicolored gradients, fastened with back lacing and hammered antique gold metal eyelets.

Look 23 Stretch skirt and cardigan set fully embroidered with painted wooden beads re-gilded by hand. Metal “leaf” structure made of a hand-coated fabric in gold paint. Belt in gilded metal and hammered rush inlaid with a molded ear embellished with rhinestone piercing.

Look 24 Wrap coat in brown velvet astrakhan faux fur hand-painted in a gradient of electric blue. It is paired with an archive-inspired breast plate made in wood, rhinestones and metal, entirely painted blue and hand-patinated. Pair of silver-plated and rhinestone earrings in the shape of a snail and hand-painted blue abstract shapes. Wood and rhinestones cuff bracelets.

Look 25 Asymmetrical dress with voluminous train and integrated underwire casing in draped crepeline revealing a nude tonal corset laced at the side and embellished with gold brass eyelets.

Look 26 Short jacket entirely covered with bijoux in plaster, wood, rhinestones and metal, with a patch of natural hydrangea flowers treated to become eternal, hand-painted in yellow, and a patch of electric blue gradations. It is paired with high-waisted pants in black wool piqué. Hand-gilded twisted wood necklace. Sugar-effect necklace in crystal beads.

Look 27 Asymmetrical draped dress in nude satin and black sheer jersey. Drawstring oversized snood that turns into a sleeve fully embroidered with natural hydrangea flowers treated to become eternal and enhanced with a hand-painted electric blue lining. Filament earring in hand-crafted raw gold metal with inlaid crystal.

Look 28 Ensemble consisting of an overtight crocheted cardigan jacket held together by bijoux buttons made of natural hydrangea flowers cast in yellow gold and the matching skirt both entirely embroidered with broken irregular pieces of mirrors. Rigid silver brass breast clutch embellished with rhinestone piercings. Pair of silver-plated brass earrings with chain and lobster clasp with inlaid molded hydrangea flowers.

Look 29 Deconstructed coat with extreme swelling and oversized collar in crackled white velvet, entirely hand-painted with multicolored touches and gradations of electric blue and orange.

Look 30 Fully crocheted oversized snood embroidered with ivory pearls. Extreme low-waisted bias skirt in ebony satin, revealing the skin through transparency. Puffy belt in dark brown velvet. Filament earring in raw hand-crafted gold-plated metal with inlaid crystal.