lessico familiare FW24 presents Literally Me, hosted by SUNNEI at Milan Men Fashion Week
The lessico familiare FW24 / Fall/Winter 2024-2025 Collection
There are figures that forcefully hit the cornea, cross it and take root within the mind and heart, where they leave an indelible imprint, which transcends logic, rides the imagination and doesn’t care too much about ethics. “Literally me’’ collects these imprints belonging to eighteen characters who have cultivated the imagery of lessico familiare following different paths, some for ideals, some for wardrobe. lessico familiare FW24 collection is made up of a series of false copyright, garments stolen from characters from their paintings, from imaginary sets, from hotel rooms or red carpets.
Dismembered according to LF’s practice, they are exaggerated in proportions, without paying too much attention to functionality. The gowns are heaps of pale, quilted and gathered plaids, the shirts are Frankensteins of lace, the pinstripe jackets are two-dimensional frames and a blue denim trousers fits 4 people together.
Ruffles emerge from the acetate piles, overcoat dresses are made of gathered curtains and the hems of the wool coats become cockade. There is no chromatic coherence, impossible to find between the Martin Luther and Seth Cohen depictions. There are no common silhouettes, could you imagine Natalia Ginzburg sharing the wardrobe with Gwyneth Paltrow? And there are not even the conditions for a peaceful tea time between Joan Didion and Mr. Darcy.
Almost grotesque, the pieces are united only by curled edge, taken from the curtains of the house, solid walls that guard the starting point of lessico, but also the meeting point of the characters among magazines, Rai specials, borrowed books, TV marathons and burned CDs.
Experience at PALAZZINA SUNNEI
When everything is done to get something back, SUNNEI dedicates itself to lessico familiare with the sole desire to see a young reality in Milan manage to focus on its potential. In a gesture that goes beyond blablabla, SUNNEI opens the doors of its own HQ, both physically and metaphori-cally, to welcome the presentation of the new collection, whose purity has instead been maintained without any Sunneian contamination.
The name on the placeholder read Martin Luther. Further away was Cecilia Lisbon, next to Richie Tenenbaum. Somewhere I glimpsed Lady Diana, she didn’t notice that Florence Welch was stepping on her train (luckily she’s barefoot). Joan Didion was jotting something down, watching Luke Danes comment on the menu with Cindy Sherman.
It’s not gossip, it’s not AI, but “Literally me”, a presentation in the form of a sit-down dinner, of lessico familiare hosted by Sunnei, with the spirit of supporting an independent reality, not only in terms of visibility, but highlighting its uniqueness and directing it towards a poetic representation of the latest collection.
The idea was to gather illustrious guests, present and past, inside Palazzina Sunnei and invite them to sit along an infinite table, all unpaired, with dusted nostalgic memorabilia: silver trays, plates and saucers, bowls with hunting scenes, inlaid glasses. The place cards read the names of the guests, all of whom were seated except for a few latecomers. The violinists (those from the Titanic – gentlemen, it has been a privilege playing with you), surprisingly, sing a waltz and one by one they arrive looking for their place. Alone, in pairs, puffing, breathless, these characters make their way among the candles, looking for their name next to that of the other guests.
Imagine an evening at dinner next to, among many, Gwyneth Paltrow, Mr Darcy, Seth Cohen, Natalia Ginzburg. The familiar cast of the lessico, the same faces that accompany the brand in every presentation, are today transfigured, literally becoming those characters, whose looks have been faithfully recreated with some poetic license.
Characters
The recreated characters belong to the imaginary of lessico familiare, without logical criteria, but choosing our favourties for wardrobe and thoughts. Each character corresponds to a person, the family cast that accompanies us from the first presentation. Martin Luther, for the reform. Cecilia Lisbon, for her frankness. Florence Welch, for the lungs. Richie Tenenbaum, for waiting at the station. Gwyneth Paltrow, for Goop. Sofia Coppola, for the girls. Mr Darcy, for your stubbornness. Luke Danes, for coffee. Seth Cohen (with spider man mask), for indie pride. Lady Diana, for everything. Natalia Ginzburg, for family lexicon. Ginger Rogers, for the beat. Cindy Sherman, for literally me. Mary Parsons, so that it doesn’t happen again. Nina Simone, for Little Girl Blue. Lenny Belardo, for vanity. Joan Didion, for the words.
ABOUT lessico familiare
lessico familiare is a home clothing project, born in March 2020, out of boredom and joy. It pays homage to Natalia Ginzburg in the name and with the aim of passing on memories with already garments, disassembled and reassembled, often enlarged. Then again with curled tablecloths, bowed curtains and other nostalgic echoes, without being paralyzed in the past. The method, although young, is tested: there is no fabric folder, color palette, samples or production. There are only unique pieces, created individually by finding a compromise between ideas and findings from wardrobes and markets.
Garments that are laid on the floor, one on top of the other, with two, three, four sleeves until the desired effect is found, combined without too much rumination, deliberately disproportionate. Real textile and sustainable collages simulated on floors, then turned into shape on the body, with frou-frou elements, pop quotes, trompe l’oeil overlays and circular patchworks where nothing is thrown away, where everything finds a new function.
As with a real language, it is constantly changing, allowing itself the luxury of inventing its own word-garments in total freedom. From the walls of his home, where lessico still lives, it moved to Sozzani Foundation, ADI Design Museum, Spazio Martìn, Cinema Beltrade, Le Progrès Marais to present each collection-chapter, trying to preserve his own lexicon and at the same time build a new one.
All images lessico familiare FW24 / Fall/Winter 2024-2025 by lessico familiare