Hed Mayner FW24 at Paris Men Fashion Week

Hed Mayner FW24 / Fall Winter 2024 – 2025 at Paris Men Fashion Week

What’s a classic?

A double or single breasted jacket?

A coat with a notch or peak lapel?

A tie?

A button-down shirt?

A cardigan or a pullover?

A trench, a mackintosh or a parka?

A pleated trouser or a cargo pant?

A chino, joggers or jeans?

Derby shoes, zip boots or sneakers?

A classic is a memory of something.

With each collection, Hed Mayner expands upon the definitions and binaries of traditional menswear and the prosaic allure of ‘the classic’.

War in Mayner’s native country began as he was in the midst of Hed Mayner FW24 collection. It has changed everything. Instead of a show, Hed Mayner FW24 collection video is an opportunity for the work to be shared. For some semblance of creative normality to exist.

For the studio team to have some space to process the weight of the unfolding events.

We all want things as they were – and how they could be.

This season the designer is interested more in the construction of recognisable clothes and of how shape comes from within. The research is technical and tactile. It is less about applying a second-hand cultural reputation – a film, a movement, an artwork – or political dialogue onto the body, but about clothes that are reformed. Comforting in their enveloping shapes and almost-normal look.

For Hed Mayner Fall Winter 2024 – 2025, the ongoing collaboration with Reebok continues with an exaggeration, extraction and elevation of classic sportswear construction and detailing. And a reworking of a brutalist basketball sneaker, first issued in the early 1990s.

Herringbone

Pinstripe

Checks

Grey flannel

Bonded twill

Washed denim

Biker leather

The jacket is worn simply, with a pullover underneath and a pair of trackpants. It is not an announcement of status, of gender, of salary or ambition.

Mayner’s suggestion is to wear and live within somebody else’s proportions. The clothes have all been fitted and adapted around a wide vintage tailors’ dummy, the drape of a shoulder or the ripple of a knit informed by the whispers of a stranger’s body. Elastic that mimics wool has bounce and proffers an illusion of a fabric. An advance of the classic.