Peet Dullaert SS24 / Spring Summer 2024 Couture at Paris Couture Fashion Week presents ” Couture unfolds “. Emotion : “Float. Into the blue. Skim. The Mist. Row.” Peet Dullaert
Inspiration of Peet Dullaert SS24, What is beauty, the question that is the bane of our industry’s existence, cannot be addressed with only the presentation of the end product on the runway. I want to deconstruct the set norms of couture and show you the process done differently. From the cuts that mold on the body, to embrace it, not claim; our inspiration at the Atelier is rooted in celebration of the myriad of human silhouettes. Each of them, entirely shaped and sewn by hand. “Cousu main” : a needle, a thread, creation without the use of a machine.
Admiration for the human body, paying homage to the significant shape that breathes movement and transcendent flow. Symbolic to the process of fluid shape creation, that has been a guiding architect.
Reflection on life in a digital age. Silhouettes emerging from a storm, to honour resilience and movement of the body. You are meant to live in our clothes, to be. The creations, crafted by artisanal fabric manipulation, resulting in unique surfaces that honour nature, reinterpret suiting adapted to modern posture [1] and flou-tailoring [2]. The exploration of organic shapes and the human anatomy through re-invented techno-pleat designs [3] is what the collection speaks to.
Such creation is greatly personal at the base of it all, and inspired by the lives of the diverse group of individuals around me, the generations that inspire and teach me. And so, our inspiration at the Atelier is rooted in this celebration of people, and the myriad of their human silhouettes. – Peet Dullaert
PEET DULLAERT is devoted to support initiatives that plant towards a greener future, under our Care for Earth pledge. [4] This approach is part of the company’s mission to further our responsible in-house production cycle [5], with sustainable made-to-order collections at its foundation. “While we celebrate unique vision and identity of people, connect generations, and reflect on the world with responsibly made collections, we share tribute stories inspired by our resonating Earth and the mystical environments surrounding us. In essence, we communicate a responsible alternative for luxury fashion and highlight our inseparable connection with Earth and our responsibility to care ; As people, as a community.
Glossary
1. PEET DULLAERT Signature Suiting – Cut for modern posture. Our cuts allow you to type on your phone, bend your arms at angles needed to live today’s lifestyle, whilst maintaining a fluid sartorial look. This is achieved through the house’s signature turned cut that allows for dynamic movement of the body, achieved through a bias-cut direction on the back and the arms. As opposed to traditional linear position of seams, that does not allow the wearer to live an active life, our signature cut allows for free movement of the arms complimented by design aesthetic that makes our seams flow with the body’s movement.
2. Flou-tailoring – A technique where the fabric is shaped directly on a live body, without the process of creation on a mannequin. The genesis of every design created in this collection is through live draping on the body.
3. PEET DULLAERT Techno pleating – A unique innovation of the house in treating fabric, techno pleating is manipulation of the house trademark pleated-fabric to create shapes. Shapes that are either manipulated by hand or machine, by only one artisan that creates each piece. The way the fabric is pleated and structured, it allows for the wearer to move in the clothes; without feeling constrained by the hems of the clothing. Even though each piece is couture made, the buyer can be assured that they will comfortably be able to fit into the clothes through the journey of their life. The techno pleating material further allows the wearer to travel without worrying about creases. One can bunch up the clothes, such that it is compact and can be fit into a travel suitcase, unfolded and draped on the body. For a carefree wearer that is active and does not want to be worried about ironing, luggage space, but priorities aesthetics and cuts.
4. Care for earth – For every purchase made directly via PEET DULLAERT and through our retailers we support four causes : 1% of our revenue goes towards carbon removal as a Stripe Climate Member.
We fund the The Ocean Cleanup, while simultaneously raising awareness to protect and preserve the oceans and decaying coral reefs through our inspired collections.
Via ‘One Tree Planted’ we donate trees to be planted in the Amazon rainforest, and donate to the ‘Trees for the Future’ organisation; to help improve the livelihoods of impoverished families by aiding to revitalise degraded lands through Forest Gardens, to aid efforts to reverse deforestation.
5. Responsible in-house production cycle – On a made to order basis, for ready to wear and couture, translating to our goal of conscious production. As the house only uses materials to fulfill specific orders leading to minimal scope for waste. Our shipment process is end to end carbon neutral with fully recyclable packaging.
In collaboration with TENCEL™ the house continuous its search for innovative ways to offer a responsible alternative in luxury.
Discover one of a kind creations entirely sewn by hand, and shaped to embrace the body, with true sustainable fabrics created from an intricate range of TENCEL™ LUXE crêpe fabrics.
A new collaboration backed by innovation and savoir-faire was found with Sicily based ORANGE FIBER who developed with Italian weaver Taborelli a fabric woven of TENCEL™ Lyocell filament yarn and TENCEL™ Limited Edition Lyocell yarn—spun with fibers made from certified wood and orange peel pulp from Sicily, woven in Como.
Discover exclusive innovative pieces emerge and feel the touch of conscious luxury.
Peet Dullaert : “These key looks created with TENCEL™ LUXE resonate a fluidity that reflect to me personally and enable a truly responsible and modern design.” Peet Dullaert”
“I feel what connects us is the dedication and focus on responsible creation, with forward-thinking savoir-faire. Our partnership enables us to create a better world together.”
About TENCEL™ and TENCEL™ LUXE :
TENCEL™ is the flagship brand under The Lenzing Group that covers textile specialty product fiber offerings. Fibers and filaments used under the TENCEL™ brand are derived from certified and controlled sources following the stringent guidelines of the Lenzing Wood and Pulp Policy. They are compostable and biodegradable, thus can fully revert back to nature. TENCEL™ LUXE lyocell filament yarn is created via eco-filament technology in an environmentally sound closed-loop process that recycles processed water and reuses the organic solvent at a recovery rate of more than 99%.
All images Peet Dullaert SS24 by Peet Dullaert
Credit Peet Dullaert Spring Summer 2024 Couture:
Artistic Director : Peet Dullaert
Atelier : PEET DULLAERT Paris
With special thanks to : Frederieke Broekgaarden – Nicolas Augé
Make Up : Hannah Rosie Bennett for MAC Cosmetics
Hair : Alexandry Costa – Artlist
Show Casting : Reinard Grevin
Production : Manon Merlet
Runway Lookbook Photography : Omri Rosengart
Backstage Photography : coolk8girl and Elodie Chapuis
SPECIAL MENTION :
Les Archives Nationales Hôtel de Soubise
Baroness Hélène de Ludinghausen , Pierre Bergé †
Mouna Ayoub
Riccardo Bellini | Florence Tétier – Directrice de la collection Maison JEAN PAUL GAULTIER
Emily Borich
Thomas Petit Joseph, Diane Douvalle, Ronie Levav, Claire Werlan
Katariina Lamberg, Anna Ahonen : Ahonen & Lamberg
THE LEDE COMPANY Christine Su, Olivier Bourgis, Carlos Freixeda