OVERCOAT FW24 at New York Fashion Week

OVERCOAT FW24 / Fall Winter 2024 at New York Fashion Week

Ryuhei Oomaru has established a unique position in the fashion industry that goes beyond traditional boundaries. His brand, OVERCOAT, is a space where tradition and innovation interwoven. Since its inception in 2015, OVERCOAT has worked at creating narratives, with each stitch representing a word and each garment telling a story. Oomaru’s journey, mentored by Rei Kawakubo at Comme des Garçons, has imbued him with a spirit of defiance, challenging conventional norms—a philosophy that vibrates through every aspect of OVERCOAT.

Ryuhei Oomaru finds new shapes and forms in everyday life, dissects them, and experiments with patterns. Overcoat Fall Winter 2024 collection is a vivid exploration of form, drawing inspiration from the simplicity of an apple peel, which is transformed into shapes like cubes, and tubes, which “form the simplest of patterns but offer infinite options and possibilities,” according to him.

OVERCOAT FW24 collection showcases Oomaru’s talent for transforming everyday observations into avant-garde designs. It is presented in two segments: art pieces that challenge traditional structures and a curated selection of ready-to-wear (RTW) looks, captured by Richard Kern.

The art pieces boldly challenge conventional fashion norms. With the expertise of a patternmaker, they blend refined elegance with rugged, gritty textures, manifesting Ryuhei Oomaru’s view of fashion as an experiential art form. This strategy is a deliberate defiance of traditional, monochromatic sartorial standards, boldly juxtaposing sleek designs against coarse elements.

The collection defies conventional shape and silhouette expectations with its unexpected forms—deformed tubes, cubes, and dolman sleeves—prompting a new appreciation for the unconventional beauty in these innovative structures.

OVERCOAT FW24 RTW collection builds on this foundation with more pragmatism, merging some of OVERCOAT’s signatures – such as an adaptable pleated shoulder detail that expands and contracts to adjust to the wearer shoulder width and slope – with a diverse array of textures and hues, from abstract bouclé, overdyed prints, artificial high-gloss nylon, to tactile cow leather, alongside digital knits and smooth wool sweaters, all in colors like camel, green, lemon, and eventide blue. Central to OVERCOAT FW24 collection is the collaboration with artist Peter Miles through the “WE BUY GOLD” project, which adds a layer of narrative depth and cultural commentary.

As Ryuhei Oomaru continues to bridge the gap between his heritage and his present, artistry, and apparel, he solidifies his role as a key figure in New York fashion. His creations are meant to be experienced, not just worn, each piece a testament to a career that challenges conventions and celebrates individuality.

OVERCOAT Fall Winter 2024 collection from OVERCOAT is a manifesto, a declaration of freedom in a tradition-bound world. It is Ryuhei Oomaru’s invitation to join him on a journey of exploration, innovation, and the seamless integration of art and life.