Luisa Spagnoli FW24 at Milan Fashion Week

Luisa Spagnoli FW24 / Fall Winter 2024 at Milan Fashion Week

“Such immensity, such beauty! Here we shall build the kingdom of elegance” said the Duc de Morny, the entrepreneur and half-brother of Napoleon III, who found the Deauville coastline utterly captivating.

The Luisa Spagnoli Fall Winter 2024 collection takes us on a virtual tour of this seaside resort’s most legendary spots, interpreting the multi-faceted elegance and timeless allure of an enduringly iconic locale on Normandy’s Côte Fleurie. Its charm is captured in must-have pieces that can be put together to create monochromatic ensembles. A palette of carefully-selected hues creates new, elevated head-to-toe looks in black or white, ocean blue or military green, not to mention carmine red, baby pink, peony, oil yellow, caramel and a beige shot through with gold.

We move between Deauville’s celebrated racecourse and its romantic harbour, strolling through cobbled streets lined with famous boutiques before stepping into the lights of the historic casino. Luisa Spagnoli’s signature cosmopolitan chic takes on a magical marine mood this season, through capes and coats with detachable collars in faux-fur, knitted dresses, long gowns fit for a princess, and a host of impeccably-cut jackets.

Details of Luisa Spagnoli FW24, Different textures are combined for close-fitting styles, contrasting shine and matte effects with knitwear, velvet and sequins, lurex and python-print leather. Gleaming gilt button details take their cue from nautical styling and sailors’ uniforms.

On the runway of Luisa Spagnoli FW24, coats and jackets present a laid-back, understated sensuality reminiscent of Anouk Aimée, the star of Un homme et une femme, the 1966 film set in Deauville and directed by Claude Lelouch. It’s a world of long, almost military-style overcoats, safari jackets and masculine blazers, and trouser suits in pink or oil yellow velvet. Oversized bombers with wide lapels and gathered hems are worn with kick flares, miniskirts or high-slit midi skirts.

Luisa Spagnoli’s renowned expertise in knitwear is on display in cropped styles with turned-up sleeves and cut-out details on the back, paired with shorts adorned with buttons, or tight-fitting ribbed pencil skirts. Double-breasted knitted jackets appear alongside cardigans embroidered with the brand’s new logo, worn over white silk shirts or clingy knit polo shirts.

The art of knitting can also be seen in the volume of super-soft furry jackets crafted in loop stitch, using a rich palette of fluffy yarns. It is further showcased in the effortless elegance of wool lace suits, structured high-neck sweater dresses and, in eveningwear, a regal floor-length dress in softest baby pink mohair.

In the 1950s, the diplomat and race driver Porfirio Rubirosa met the beautiful American heiress Barbara Hutton at a party in Deauville: this glamorous atmosphere inspires sequinned dresses and pants in shades of white or ruby red of white or ruby red. Cozy yarns spangled with golden micro-sequins are fashioned into oversize fur coats with matching mini-skirts, skintight dresses and long double-breasted cardigans. On the red carpet, long, velvet dresses with architectural necklines leave the shoulders bare or feature a draped neck in shades of brown, black or burgundy.

An original selection of suits and dresses in python-print leather offers the perfect look for a party thronging with the international movie stars who have been visiting Deauville for the American Film Festival every year since 1975. Reptile prints also appear on knitwear and padded jackets. A selection of knitted hats and long socks in the Luisa Spagnoli FW24 collection’s cult colour palette gives outfits an original twist.

In bags, a clutch in black or brown handwoven leather, handmade by local artisans, is emblematic of the finest Italian craftsmanship; the same woven leather features on belts in brown, red and military green.

The ideal shoe for any occasion is a Mary Jane, on a flat sole or a more sculptural kitten heel, in black leather or black, military green, dark brown or carmine red suede. And for a wet-weather option, there are the new rain boots in black or pink plastic, with contrasting soles and logo embellishment.