Acne Studios FW24 Women at Paris Fashion Week

Acne Studios FW24 Women at Paris Fashion Week, Acne Studios presents its Women’s Fall Winter 2024 collection.

SHOW ATMOSPHERE

Acne Studios FW24 Women create runway with the inspiration of Chairs in Rubber. Industrial ‘furniture bodies’. Staged in front of Chairs in Rubber (2001), two large-scale sculptures by Estonian artist Villu Jaanisoo, made from recycled tyres. The chairs – which have a craftiness, but are also a silhouette, a ‘body’ made from this industrial material – introduce a collection rooted in toughness and human form, leather and denim.

“I consider myself a sculptor in the most traditional sense. What interests me about working with tyres is the certain ‘inner resistance’ of this material: it requires a lot of physical as well as mental force to shape them; the resistance that exists in each tyre makes the surface of the sculpture alive, almost baroque. For my artworks, I have often used recycled materials, such as used car tyres or utilised fluorescent tubes. Environmental issues have been important in terms of employing these, but to me, what’s even more interesting is the trace that the former lives have left to the recycled things I use for making something new, also the idea of putting something familiar into a new context,” says the artist Villu Jaanisoo.

INSPIRATION OF ACNE STUDIOS FW24 WOMEN

A fast woman: sculpted and futuristic. Reimagining the codes of Acne Studios: denim and leather, with a raw, mechanical edge. Elevated femininity juxtaposed with a tough attitude, where archetypes of womenswear – fur (faux and shearling), ladylike handbags, a classic black dress, and leather are twisted.

“I’ve always been drawn to leather and denim. It’s the spirit of Acne Studios. One of our first collections in the late 90s was called ‘leather and denim’; two things that belong together. This Acne Studios Fall Winter 2024 women’s collection, we’ve created a powerful leather and denim woman. I’ve always related to clothing through subcultural movements. Denim and leather can transcend genre and subcultures – from punk to S&M. When you want to feel tough you gravitate towards leather and denim; it’s like armour. It always feels right. An empowering safety zone,” says Jonny Johansson, creative director of Acne Studios.

COLOUR PALETTE

Severe and polished. Black and dark brown, a neutral palette with biker accents in flame orange, green and blue coming from prints.

SILHOUETTE

Long and elongated. Playing with proportions – either stretched or shrunken, and nothing in between. Shearling is oversized and wild, almost patchworked. An exploration into tailoring, very sharp and lean for Acne Studios FW24 Women.

Elsewhere, ‘Lampshade’ dresses stretched with mesh and boning, test the boundaries, almost like the underlay of a couture dress: taking the inside and putting it outside. Similarly, ribbed Henley jerseys, reminiscent of undergarments, are exposed and elevated to outer garments.

FABRICS

Second-skin leather in skin-tight nappa. Elsewhere, moulded couture-like leather pieces accentuate the female form and creates a sculptural armour. Craftsmanship of the leather feels polished, drawing inspiration from how saddles are made. Denim is given a mechanical edge, with oil-coated, metallic, and rust-inspired treatments, rendered in floor-skimming silhouettes. Icelandic sheepskin offers a cosiness, but savage in the styling: an effortless, almost raw feeling true to Acne Studios.

PRINTS

Signalling biker culture with prints inspired by bandanas, but subverted and reimagined as elaborate angels and renaissance paintings in flame orange, green and blue.

BAGS

The Bowlina ‘bowling bag’ takes centre stage, reworked this season with a metal plaque and in an oversized weekender, medium and micro sizes. The Multipocket ‘tool bag’ returns in new denim-coated leather treatments including pearlescent oyster and brown coating.

ACCESSORIES

This season’s jewellery has a chrome, car-finish feel. Mirrored eyewear in black and rose gold, creates a mechanical chrome world, like it’s polished.

FOOTWEAR

Mesh boots and pumps add height, creating a towering silhouette to complete the look for Acne Studios Fall Winter 2024 women’s collection.