Issey Miyake FW24 at Paris Fashion Week

Issey Miyake FW24 / Fall Winter 2024 at Paris Fashion Week

Presented on Friday, March 1, at the Museum of Immigration History at Palais de la Porte Dorée in Paris, the ISSEY MIYAKE Fall Winter 2024 – 2025 collection, What Has Always Been examines the origin of clothing the human body with a piece of cloth, creating a collection inspired by this intrinsic act.

The act of clothing the human body is something that predates garment making. Engagement in this act leads to a discovery of drapery, layering, folding and twisting, and asymmetrical composition, as well as ma (the unfilled space) and playfulness—all resulting in clothing in its most natural form with little manipulation. A piece of clothing created in this manner transcends the notion of a garment. The final form of this creation is fluid and flexible, favoring the wearer. A collection of clothing like this is not defined by certain eras or contexts, but is developed from this act that is primitive and universal, and always evokes a sense of originality.

ENVISION is a woven series of sculptural forms made out of a piece of cloth. The fabric is a development from a washi blend fiber presented at the Spring Summer 2024 show, offering a light texture that is dry to the touch.

The shapes are based on a series of initial studies of forms created by wrapping a piece of cloth around a torso. This light fabric is woven with washi and stretch fibers, giving the garment a soft feel while holding its volume, as it drapes naturally around the wearer’s body.

DETAILS OF ISSEY MIYAKE FALL WINTER 2024 – 2025 COLLECTION :

ENCLOTHE PANTS is a series made of a fabric that combines the softness of triacetate and the stiffness of linen. The asymmetrical silhouette of the pants is made from a square pattern that utilizes the width of the fabric, inspired by the early act of clothing the body with a piece of fabric.

ASAGAO is a seamless knit series inspired and shaped from the form of the flower. The bodice and sleeves are rib-knit, while the flower-like shapes at the cuffs and hem are garter-knit, adding a lively three-dimensional effect to the tubular structure. The colors that gradually change toward the cuffs and hem are created by combining three different colored yarns. The sleeves can be wrapped around the neck and body, or worn like a hat for a touch of playfulness on Issey Miyake FW24.

ENCLOTHE WASHI AND WOOL is a woven series inspired by the idea of wearing a piece of fabric around the body, forming rich drapes. Despite the voluminous silhouette, the fabric has a warm texture that feels soft on the skin, made possible by using a fabric woven with natural (washi and wool) and stretch fibers.

BEHIND THE SCENES is a playful knit series, deliberately showing the process behind the construction of the seamless knitwear. The design incorporates what are called “waste yarns” which would normally get discarded during the production process. This series demonstrates an approach of design and making that produces less waste.

INTERPLAY is based on the concept of stacking block colors which have been knitted seamlessly with a double-layered construction in Issey Miyake FW24. A single garment looks as if it has dual-layers when worn, and can be styled in a variety of ways by manipulating the bi-colored sections, or by moving your body and arms through different openings.

VIGOR features captivating patterns that express the liveliness of wildflowers. The design team collected flowers and leaves and applied paint directly to them to create patterns that are both delicate and raw. The difference in shrinkage between cotton and wool during the felting process brings out more of the texture and the details of the original images. The color palette is inspired by the seven herbs native to Japan in autumn*. The shoulders of the long coat and poncho are designed by folding a single piece of fabric.

*The herbs are hagi (bush clover), kikyo (balloon flower), kuzu (Japanese arrowroot), fujibakama (Eupatorium fortunei), ominaeshi (Patrinia scabiosifolia), obana (Japanese pampas grass), and nadeshiko (Japanese dianthus).

WANDER is a hand-pleated series of organic silhouettes. Circular and right-angled pleats are applied on sheer fabric which is made by alternately weaving fine, transparent polyester yarns and polyester spun yarns, allowing it to be delicate yet firm enough to hold its shape. The airy, roomy silhouettes evoke the figure of a nomadic wanderer.

NUANCE TUBE is a knit series that expresses the changing colors of the sky with hand-dyed gradients. After being knitted, each garment is delicately hand-dyed by the craftspeople. The seamless tubular knit can be worn upside down and back to front. The color palette with vivid pink is inspired by the sky at sunset, while the other with cool-toned khaki is reminiscent of the cold, pale sky before it shifts into the deep night.