Marie Lueder SS25 at Berlin Fashion Week

Marie Lueder SS25 / Spring Summer 2025 at Berlin Fashion Week

The Designer Marie Lueder unveils transformative “Rubedo” SS25 collection at Berlin Fashion Week during INTERVENTION

Inspired by the pinnacle of Alchemical tradition, Rubedo signifies profound transformation and unification. The process of Rubedo is associated with the color red as fire, a tint of ash, green matter, and seal brown burnt wood. These color schemes are reflected in the collection, drawing inspiration from traditional Alchemical processes both conceptually and aesthetically.

Rubedo represents the culmination of Alchemical work, symbolizing the ultimate metamorphosis where the ego merges with the self, and the individual reintegrates with the collective. Marie Lueder SS25 / Spring Summer 2025 collection embodies this transformative journey, reflecting the profound reunification of body, soul, and spirit. Each piece in the collection resonates with the intricate processes of Alchemy, offering a visual and symbolic narrative of transformation.

The runway show of Marie Lueder SS25 / Spring Summer 2025 is curated to echo the primordial motif of the magical circle, a powerful symbol in Alchemy and other forms of spiritual rituals. The show opens with the vape trickster creating dispersing smoke rings, introducing the circular theme. Models then gracefully move around the dimly lit round space, forming a symbolic ring commemorating the collection. Each step and gesture are a testament to alchemical practice.

Born in Hamburg and hailing from a family of health practitioners, Lueder’s fashion narrative is marked by accentuated knee panels, dual-tone denim, ruched Bombers, and recurring spiral motifs, reflecting her fascination with the anxieties of modern life.

Lueder, the founder of her eponymous label launched in February 2020 at London Fashion Week, describes her clothing as metaphorical armor inspired by the challenges of mental obstacles. Having studied fashion design in Hamburg at the University of Applied Science and earned a Master’s in Menswear from the prestigious Royal College of Arts in London, Lueder has garnered swift recognition, and forged partnerships with esteemed retailers like Browns Fashion in London or H-Lorenzo in L.A. and Slam Jam in Milan.

Marie Lueder won this year the Berlin contemporary prize by the German Fashion Council.

Special thanks to sponsors: Puma (Yannic Akinyosoye, and Angelique Houben). Material sponsors and collaborators on innovative and sustainable techniques: Tintoria Emiliana.

Collaborators: Jewellery by Atelier Viscera.Movement by Artist David Varhegyi. Music by Kyyberwall, Airbrush artist Mia Violet. Styling and consultation by Tati Cotliar.