FETICO SS25 / Spring Summer 2025 at Rakuten Fashion Week Tokyo entitled The Secrets.
Inspirations of FETICO SS25 / Spring Summer 2025, The starting point was designer Emi Funayama’s encounter with a pair of 1980s tapered pants and a bustier she found in a vintage shop in Paris. Drawn to the design sensibilities of the ’80s, Funayama delved into magazines and materials from that era to explore why this period holds such allure. The muse for this season is Veronica Webb, an American supermodel and actress who rose to fame in the 1980s. Webb broke barriers as the first African-American to be featured in a major cosmetics campaign, graced luxury brand runways, and appeared on the covers of fashion magazines.
She is also known as one of the muses of Azzedine Alaïa, a designer whom Funayama deeply admires. Webb’s charming sophistication and the elegant fashion of the 1980s served as the inspiration for this season’s creations.
Another source of inspiration came from the film Drowning by Numbers (1988), directed by Peter Greenaway, which Funayama discovered during her research into the ’80s aesthetic. Set in Suffolk, England, the film is a suspenseful tale of three generations of women—grandmother, mother, and daughter—who drown their partners. The film’s delicate and ephemeral atmosphere, its mysterious and nostalgic worldview, and its classical fashion elements are all heavily reflected in the collection.
Through this creation process, Funayama also pondered the allure of women who harbor secrets. “While open-minded people are wonderful, I am also fascinated by those who keep certain things hidden. Models posing coolly in magazines, women in films with secrets—they spark my imagination. I wanted to express the multifaceted and mysterious beauty of women.” This FETICO SS25 collection, which fuses the powerful female figures of the ’80s with the enigmatic and dreamlike women, aims to draw out your own hidden charms.
About The collection, FETICO SS25 reinterprets ’80s styles with a modern and feminine touch. It combines the iconic body-conscious silhouettes of the era with FETICO’s signature lingerie details. These elements are delicately expressed through the use of panels and gathers that create gentle volumes, along with a careful mix of different materials and textures. Funayama explains, “This season, I consciously explored the balance of feminine silhouettes by exaggerating or concealing body lines, revealing or ambiguously covering the skin with sheer fabrics.”
The color palette of FETICO Spring Summer 2025 is grounded in basic tones of black, white, gray, and brown, accented by soft pinks and lime greens typical of the ’80s. Rose patterns and polka dot motifs, influenced by the film Drowning by Numbers, are also scattered throughout the collection.
Continuing to work with Japanese textile regions and artisans, this season’s collection places even greater emphasis on environmental considerations while striving for high-quality craftsmanship. Dresses with gathers and ruffles, halter-neck bodysuits, and off-the-shoulder tops are crafted from high-gauge bare jersey, providing an elegant luster, comfortable stretch, and smooth drape. Nostalgic rose and polka dot slip dresses and maxi dresses are made from cupro twill, with a wrinkled finish, dyed individually by hand and air-dried for a soft, natural feel.
The exaggerated silhouettes of biker jackets, off-shoulder jumpsuits, and mini skirts with side belts are made from leather-like satin, giving them an elegant appearance. The bustiers and high-waisted skirts with three-dimensional rose motifs use original jacquard fabric from Kiryu, Gunma, woven with recycled rayon and acetate to create a vintage-like texture with a firm feel.
The denim series, made from organic cotton processed in Okayama, includes body-conscious jackets, apron dresses, bustiers, pants, and skirts, adorned with eyelets, rhinestones, and lingerie-inspired elastic bands that accentuate the waist. Key items like jacquard denim jackets, high-waisted pants, apron dresses, and bustiers feature woven rose patterns.
Tailoring, a FETICO specialty, stands out with unique details, such as a three-way tailored jacket that a cropped jacket and see-through vest layered underneath, a vest with gathered beads and rose embroidery at the chest, pleated skirts with detachable suspenders, and high-waisted pleated trousers with tapered hems. Lingerie-inspired panel jackets, bishop sleeve sailor blouses, and maxi tiered skirts with lace inserts lend a romantic touch to the collection.
Iconic ’80s styles reminiscent of Veronica Webb include front-knot shirts and lace-knit bodysuits. Sheer draped dresses and off-shoulder maxi dresses with abundant tulle offer an elegant yet mysteriously seductive appeal.
The show was staged with underwater imagery reminiscent of symbolic scenes from Drowning by Numbers. The music, once again composed by Kengo Matsumoto, a member of the rock band THE NOVEMBERS, added to the atmosphere with an original score.
Accessories of FETICO SS25, FETICO’s first sneaker features a sleek square-toe leather body with double Velcro straps and a Vibram sole, offering both style and comfort. Available in black, white, and silver, it complements the collection’s looks. The belt-accented waist bag elegantly incorporates the waist-marking style of the ’80s. Accessories like rose-shaped corsages, chokers, crochet knit caps, and chandelier-part necklaces and earrings add a touch of glamor to the outfits.
The collaboration FETICO with Japanese eyewear brand “BLANC” continues this season with sunglasses featuring an oval shape and three-dimensional television cut, available in black, Bordeaux, and Havana (tortoiseshell) for Spring Summer 2025 Collection.
ABOUT FETICO
Designer: Emi Funayama
Brand Concept: “The Figure: Feminine”
FETICO draws inspiration from classic styles that emphasize the beauty of the female form.
The brand reinterprets these aesthetic principles and perceptions of the body through a unique lens, designing a new vision of femininity that combines contrasting elements. FETICO’s collections are meticulously crafted in collaboration with Japanese textile regions and artisans, with a focus on creating designs and products that will be cherished as beautiful vintage pieces over time.
All images FETICO SS25 / Spring Summer 2025 at Rakuten Fashion Week Tokyo by FETICO
CREDITS TO Designer: Emi Funayama, Stylist: Shotaro Yamaguchi, Production: Yoshio Wakatsuki (DRUMCAN Inc.), Casting: SHIMANA, Make up: Nobuko Maekawa, Hair: Yusuke Morioka, Music: Kengo Matsumoto, PR: @thewallshowroom THE WALL PR