Setchu FW25 / Fall Winter 2025-2026 at Pitti Uomo. I WANT LESS, AND LESS THAN THAT

Reduction is at the heart of SETCHU. Every collection originates from a piece of origami paper and is subsequently expanded through the dialogue between East and West, their respective cultures and crafts. Opposite ways of conceiving the garment – one based on flat shapes that become three-dimensional once worn, the other on the idea of the volumetric garment – clash into the vision of Satoshi Kuwata, who is Japanese but has been trained in Savile Row and whose idea is to position SETCHU halfway between these two worlds through a transformative approach that urges the wearer to use each piece in multiple ways, according to instinct, will and need.

Multi-functionality lies at the core of SETCHU: one thing, infinite possibilities, lessness as moreness. Constantly adding new items while perfecting existing ones, from this Fall Winter 2025-2026 SETCHU will also be offering an updating service, allowing clients the possibility to tweak what they have in order to add ways of wearing.

A square is the starting process of the Setchu FW25 / Fall Winter 2025-2026 collection. Fold halfway, first vertically and then horizontally, it spawns four more squares of different shades, divided by three mountain folds and one valley fold. A very SETCHU movement from 2D to 3D ensues. These manipulations are reflected in the way the garments are constructed: safari jackets and coats can be shortened, shirts and blazers extend into square panels, the tails of a tailcoat can be tucked inside. The multifunctionality of each garment is heightened by the spirit of simplicity , which is underlined by a color palette focused essentially on black, white and grey, reminiscent of black-and-white television and newspaper. Gender divides are narrowed, too. Fabrics are dense and tactile, with a grey and black tartan as seasonal signature. Adding an eminently Japanese trait, a colorful, kimono-style silk jacquard has been developed, with a homoerotic take on The Tale of Genji, while octopuses in the shape of penises grow from erotic mangas into sumptuous lace.

Following the rhythm of a day, the show progresses from the AM to the PM, its key moments marked by three bespoke pieces developed by Davies & Sons, the oldest operating tailor shop in London’s Savile Row: a morn- ing suit, a blue double breasted blazer with gold buttons, a tail jacket, all origami-constructed according to the SETCHU ethos.

Playful functionality and considered timelessness fold into a vision of inventive lessness.

After the show of Setchu FW25 / Fall Winter 2025-2026, the presentation continues at the first floor, where the many elements that make up for the whole of the SETCHU world, from a personal passion for fishing to the taste for origami folding applied to tailoring as well as gloves or napkins, are displayed into tatami lined cabinets. Nineteen of such cabinets will be laid in a circle, like haikus bringing light to the East meets West ethos that’s at the core of SETCHU.

All images Setchu FW25 / Fall Winter 2025-2026 by Setchu. PR Agency PR Consulting Paris. SPECIAL THANKS CREATIVE DIRECTION CARINA FREY & STEFANIE BARTH, STYLIST TANYA JONES, MAKE UP THOMAS DE KLYUWER, HAIR SOICHI INAGAKI, CHOREOGRAPHER MICHAEL JOHN HARPER, MUSIC PAOLO TOCCI, FILM MASSIMILIANO BOMBA, PHOTOGRAPHY PATRICK BIENERT, TEXT ANGELO FLACCAVENTO, PR NATHALIE OURS, SHOW PRODUCTION GAINSBURY AND WHITING, COORDINATION LEILA PALERMO, SPECIAL ADVISOR FABRICE PAINEAU.