Bianca Saunders FW25 / Fall Winter 2025 – 2026 at Paris Men’s Fashion Week entitled “Dichotomy”

Bianca Saunders FW25 / Fall Winter 2025 – 2026 collection, delves into the concept of parallels —a recurring theme inher work. This season, titled “Dichotomy,” Saunders examines the interplay between movement and constraint, two opposing forces that, when combined, create something entirely new.

Inspired by archived footage of male Jamaican dancers, Saunders was initially “drawn to the idea of repetition in dance moves, where sequences are built on simplicity yet come together to create something intricate, intentional whilst forming a cohesive routine”. This notion of conscious repetition is evident throughout Bianca Saunders FW25 collection. Signature silhouettes from past seasons are revisited and reimagined, including the oversized, bow-legged Manner trousers and the classic Y-neck long-sleeve shirts, now presented in vibrant pink tones and dynamic patterns. The fluid expression of dance is evocative within the scrunches and creases of the Fragment shirts and Ribbed tops. Returning to the clean cut AW24 Square Shirt, the Fragment Shirt’s irregular lines break up the body and mimic the inconsistency of motion.

The slow, conscious movement is exaggerated through this season’s partnership with multidisciplinary artist Shanti Bell, whose weighted materials mimic and tether the models in opposing motion. Bell’s weighted materials emphasise the deliberate movements and create a striking visual tension. The pair’s work first interacted through their involvement in Somerset House’s ‘The Missing Thread’, an exhibition which focused on the shifting landscape of Black British culture and the unique contribution it has made to Britain’s rich design history. Their partnership continues to evolve, with Bell’s set designs framing the models and highlighting Bianca Saunders FW25 / Fall Winter 2025 – 2026 collection’s central themes. “This set design is activated by the human body and as the models move they occupy the space through constrained movement, creating this tension of the fabric that sculpts the space. We considered how this juxtaposition between freedom and restriction could be visually explored, creating this moment of contrast and celebration of movement.” – Shanti Bell. Bell’s immersive set design draws viewers into the physical interactions between the clothing and the environment.

The concept of twisting and tying—a hallmark of Saunders’ work—is prominent in FW25. Trouser inseams are twisted, bags are knotted, and legs are tied, creating a sense of conscious deconstruction. This approach draws inspiration from modernist artist Steven Parrino, whose abstract canvases are torn, twisted, and slashed to disrupt their original monochrome base. Saunders juxtaposes textures and materials, pairing soft alpaca knits with creased and crushed ribs, alongside clean-cut water-repellent nylons. This interplay of softness and rigidity mirrors the Bianca Saunders collection’s exploration of movement and constraint.

Another key Bianca Saunders AW25 reference is Robert Longo’s iconic “Men in the Cities” series. Longo’s photographs capture sharply dressed individuals in abrupt, contorted poses, generated by real physical stimuli like tethers and thrown objects. Longo’s work captures the energy of physical, unexpected motion which comes from true interaction with the environment, for Saunders there’s emphasis on balancing softer, more feminine elements with classic workwear-inspired silhouettes which can be seen throughout the collection.

Artistic references remain a key element of Saunders’ work. The duality explored in “A Dichotomy” builds on themes first visited in AW24’s “Nothing Personal,” inspired by Richard Avedon and James Baldwin’s book of the same name. By weaving together diverse influences, Saunders creates collections that delve into complex, multi-layered concepts.

Accessories for Bianca Saunders AW25 are bold and intentional, acting as both practical and stylistic elements. The knot-style bag, reimagined from its SS25 string iteration, now appears padded and oversized for winter. These statement pieces are complemented by alpaca knitted hats and scarves in prints that echo the clothing designs. Continuing their partnership from last season, Saunders has worked again with the Portuguese Association of Footwear (APICCAPS) manufactured by Valuni. These pieces range from classic, riding style knee high boots and scrunched loafers, revisited from the first collaboration, to distinctive square toe pastel dress shoes, laced to the toe.

With “Dichotomy,” Bianca Saunders continues to push boundaries, blending past and present, softness and structure, movement and constraint. The result is a collection that not only celebrates duality but also transforms it into a dynamic, cohesive whole.

All images Bianca Saunders FW25 / Fall Winter 2025 – 2026 by the brand. Credit to: Creative Director – Bianca Saunders, Styling – Nathan Klein, Casting – Affa Osman, Hair – Yvonne Saunders, Make up – Crystabel Riley, Production – The Curated, Set Design – Shanti Bell, Runway Photographer – Pedro Da Silva, Content – Yoann et Marco, Show Film Director – Terry Paul, Movement Direction – Ayanna Birch, Special Projects – Geoffrey Barlow, Communications – Nina Verano, PR – A-GOLD Consulting, Music – Olukemi Lijadu, BTS Photographers – Jorian Charlton, Sirne Benarif, Jessica San, Alexander Oni, Stencer Saintelange, Line Brusegan, Trey Akula. Gratitude to: Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, Pascal Morand, Serge Carreira The Bianca Saunders Studio team, Alessandra Vennitti, Show Production Team, Show Assistants Yvonne Saunders, Terry Paul, and my family who always support me.