Francesco Murano Fall/Winter 2025 / FW25 at Milan Fashion Week
Equilibrium noun; formal; /ˌek.wɪˈlɪb.ri.əm/ /ˌiː.kwɪˈlɪb.ri.əm/ – the state of balance between opposite forces or a state of mental calm. Equal balance between any powers, influences, etc.; equality of effect.
In the Fall/Winter 2025 / FW25 collection, Francesco Murano takes up the theme of balance – a rediscovered balance – which expands from the spirit to the outside and is reflected in the construction of the garments. A broken rhythm that seeks its center of gravity between symmetries and asymmetries. The symbolic contrast between logic and passion evolves between the rational Apollonian expressed in the sartorial constructions and the Dionysian, which becomes material in the use of draping, realized according to the ancient tailoring technique of moulage, guided by the irrational passion for decoration.
The concept of Chiasmus, a compositional formula codified by Polykleitos in his sculptural work, is added to the archetypes of Classical art and used to resolve the balance between stasis and action. Here, the chiasmus is expressed in the juxtaposition of movements generated on one side of the body, which end with an asymmetry on the opposite side, visually and conceptually balancing the composition of the garment through the construction of the drapery, using jersey in different weights and drapes – crepe, light, shiny or transparent chiffon effect, available in all the colors of the collection palette.
Linea Pelle, representing the best leather producers, confirmed the collaboration and will provide state-of-the-art materials to craft pantsuits and outerwear, such as dramatic long coats and cropped bomber jackets with oversized sleeves. The color palette is graphic and clean to define the volumes: Black and off-White, Lead and Mahogany.
Francesco Murano, born in ’97, graduated in Fashion Design from IED Milan in 2019, winning the Camera Moda Italiana Fashion Award. During this catwalk, Zerina Akers, Beyoncé’s stylist, noticed him and chose his designs to dress the pop star for one of the Grammy 2020 events. In the fall of the same year, Murano won the 16th edition of “Who is On Next?”, the scouting project promoted by Vogue Italia that is dedicated to new fashion talents. The eponymous brand was established in 2021, blending a passion for design with a love for classical and baroque arts; it expresses the contradictions of the contemporary world and the harmony between the rational and irrational, the material and abstract, and the Apollonian and the Dionysian. In 2024, Francesco Murano received the prestigious Italian Fashion Trust Grant for Emerging Brands. One of his Fall Winter 2425 dresses graced the cover of the December 2024 issue of Vogue Italia. He is a semi-finalist for the LVMH Prize 2025.
All images Francesco Murano FW25 / Fall/Winter 2025 by the brand. PR Agency Next Agency Milan. Credit to Make-up Elena Bettanello @ Julian Watson Agency using La Truccheria MakeUpForEver Professional Paris Hair by Paolo Soffiatti @ Blend Management using Revlon Professional, Legwear by CALZEDONIA.
Special Thanks To Fondazione Sozzani was established in 2016 by Carla Sozzani and is dedicated to promoting culture through photography, fashion, the fine arts, and applied arts. The Foundation has assumed the patronage of Galleria Carla Sozzani and continues all relevant public functions that the Gallery has supported since 1990. Since 2021, Sara Sozzani Maino has curated and coordinated projects dedicated to education, responsibility, and the next generation of creatives.