Undercover Women Fall/Winter 2025 at Paris Fashion Week

Undercover Women Fall/Winter 2025 / FW25 at Paris Fashion Week, titled “but beautiful 4…,” marks a monumental milestone for the brand, celebrating its 35th Anniversary with a special commemorative collection. This year’s offering reflects the evolution of the brand and its founder, Jun Takahashi, who has continuously pushed boundaries in fashion and art since the brand’s inception in 1993. Undercover’s philosophy has always blurred the lines between high fashion, streetwear, and conceptual design, capturing the pulse of youth culture while never straying far from its own avant-garde roots.

Undercover Women FW25 / Fall/Winter 2025 collection takes inspiration from what Takahashi considers his “personal best” — the 2004-2005 A/W collection “but beautiful…part parasitic part stuffed.” This collection, deeply influenced by the plush creations of French artist Anne-Valerie Dupond and the iconic style of Patti Smith, explored a world where fashion and art intertwined, creating whimsical yet haunting garments that felt both familiar and otherworldly. The designs were born from a creative process that saw Takahashi imagining what Patti Smith would wear if she were to embrace the world of handcrafted stuffed animals. The garments were filled with emotion and contradiction, offering a juxtaposition of softness and edge that resonated deeply with fans of the brand.

Now, two decades later, Takahashi revisits that collection, reimagining it for the present day with a keen awareness of the world’s shifting cultural landscape. At 55 years old, Takahashi has a different perspective than when he was 35, and this anniversary collection takes a more adult and casual approach. The reinvention is a reflection of how the designer has evolved over the years, not only in his design techniques but also in his personal experiences and observations of the zeitgeist. The Undercover Women FW25 / Fall/Winter 2025 retains the spirit of “but beautiful…part parasitic part stuffed,” but it is now expressed through a more mature lens—focusing on the subtlety and comfort of adult casual wear, without losing the emotional resonance that made the original collection so iconic.

Undercover’s continued relevance in the fashion world speaks to Jun Takahashi’s ability to continually evolve while staying true to his vision. His blend of personal narrative, social commentary, and innovative design keeps Undercover at the forefront of fashion, maintaining its place as a leader in the avant-garde scene. Through collections like “but beautiful 4…” Takahashi not only celebrates the past but also propels his brand—and the world of fashion—into the future.