Dries Van Noten Women AW25 at Paris Fashion Week

Dries Van Noten Women AW25 / Autumn/Winter 2025 – 2026 at Paris Fashion Week

Dries Van Noten Women Autumn/Winter 2025 – 2026 / AW25 collection, titled “Behind the Curtain,” marks the debut of Julian Klausner as the brand’s Creative Director. The collection, presented at the iconic Palais Garnier, draws inspiration from the rich history of the opera house, blending the energy of the past with contemporary fashion. Klausner reflects on his childhood experiences of exploring his family’s costume box, emphasizing the tactile joy and transformative power of clothing, which has been the cornerstone of his creative vision. This collection is a celebration of personal ritual, transformation, and the delicate interplay between past and future.

Silhouettes in Dries Van Noten Women Autumn/Winter 2025 – 2026 / AW25 collection evoke imagined stories, combining the elegance of past eras with a modern sensibility. There is a strong dialogue between structured tailoring and fluid, draped flou, with key details like enlarged cuffs, sculpted matelassé curls, and fabric-covered buttons opening along pant legs. Traditional wardrobe shapes are reinterpreted, with fold-over waists and puffed sleeves adding a fresh twist to classic tailoring. The result is a balance of contemporary decadence and historical references, creating a visual harmony between the old and the new.

Craftsmanship plays a central role in the collection, with contrasts between luxurious handwork and spontaneous details. Techniques such as whipstitching are applied to shoelaces, while intricate embroideries evoke the ornate beauty of the opera, seen in arabesques and jewel-like clusters. The collection also incorporates elements from opera décor, such as velvet, rug jacquards, curtain tassels, and fringes, reimagined as lavish embellishments. These elements add depth to the looks, creating a sense of theatre and drama throughout the collection.

The collection’s colour palette is rich and varied, with jewel tones like bottle green, petrol, and violet complementing classic shades of grey, navy, and black. Touches of ballet blush and playful polka dots bring an unexpected lightness, while tie motifs and draped dresses add fluidity and movement. Accessories, including shoes with exaggerated round toes and intricate jewelry made from knotted shoelaces, emphasize the attention to detail. The overall effect is a collection that transcends the stage, offering a poetic narrative where each piece feels like part of a larger, living story.