SOSHIOTSUKI Autumn/Winter 2025 at Tokyo Fashion

SOSHIOTSUKI Autumn/Winter 2025 / AW25 at Tokyo Fashion entitled DISTORTED ELEGANCE – JAPANESE TRADITION.

SOSHIOTSUKI presents a new form of Japanese trad in its Autumn/Winter 2025 / AW25 collection, exploring the sadness and introspection hidden in the background of Japanese identity and complexes in Western society. This collection aims not for perfect beauty, but for sexiness born from imperfection. By eliminating excessive decoration and hiding calculated distortions and subtle discomfort in a simple structure, we have created clothes that are quiet yet powerful in energy. One of the inspirations for this collection is the image of Japanese men during the bubble era of the 1980s. We have reinterpreted that aesthetic sense in a modern way and added new shape suggestions. The iconic power shoulder has been changed to a rounded silhouette, suppressing the traditional rigid lines. The jacket’s deep V-zone reveals the waist, subtly disrupting the balance of a classic suit. In addition, the gorge line and pockets are intentionally set low, while the pants are high-waisted, creating an unnatural silhouette. A unique approach is also taken to the construction of the shoulders.

A stiff core Is placed at the point where the average man’s shoulder width would be, emphasizing the shoulder structure. In addition, the drape falling from the shoulders is intentionally pinched with tucks to control the flow and create a calculated movement. In the knitwear, the shoulder width is knitted tightly to emphasize the male décolleté, creating a design that highlights the structural beauty of the body. This idea is based on a personal memory that designer Otsuki Soshi experienced in the mid-2000s. Otsuki, who had broad shoulders due to his experience in judo, was forced to wear a narrow-shouldered jacket, which was trendy at the time. Through this experience, he has continued to deeply consider the element of “shoulder width,” which led to the silhouette of SOSHIOTSUKI AW25 / Autumn/Winter 2025 collection.

Another important theme of SOSHIOTSUKI AW25 / Autumn/Winter 2025 collection is the questioning of the “perfection” of Japanese products. The dimples at the end of darts, which are considered B-grade in normal tailoring, are intentionally converted into tucks, and the resulting drape brings out the beauty of accidental nature. By combining soft fabric with interlining, a contrast of textures where hardness and softness coexist is created, bringing a new form to the silhouette of the body. In addition, this collection uses some vintage deadstock fabric to add texture and depth that comes with the passage of time. In addition, the main wool fabric is a sample of Italian suit fabric from the 1980s, and a special material woven in Oshu, Japan is explored. By combining traditional craftsmanship with a modern perspective, the material of the past is sublimated into a new expression.

“What is the new Japanese trad after the kimono?” The core of this collection is to explore this question. A fusion of Western formal wear and Japanese sensibility. The quiet tension that arises in the gap is the reality of modern Japanese people and the form of beauty we aim for.

About SOSHIOTSUKI / Soshi Otsuki, He launched the menswear label SOSHIOTSUKI in 2015. He proposes a dandyism created by the Japanese spirituality and tailoring techniques. In 2016, he was nominated for the shortlist of the “LVMH PRIZE 2016”. In the same year, he held an exhibition in Paris. In 2023, he will present a runway show at Rakuten Fashion Week TOKYO. https://soshiotsuki.jp/