Kiko Kostadinov Men SS26 at Paris Men’s Fashion Week

Kiko Kostadinov Men SS26 / Spring/Summer 2026 at Paris Men’s Fashion Week, It is a moonless summer night. Starless and inky black. You can hear the small town breathing. Listen. The day is breaking.

The Kiko Kostadinov Men collection for Spring/Summer 2026 / SS26 spans the course of a working day in a fictional island town. Somewhere small and hard to place, at a remove from the outside world and unhindered by external trends and conventions. People get up to prepare for the day ahead, they work their jobs, they stop for tea, they go home, they dress up, they go out. They live their lives. It is hot.

Details of Kiko Kostadinov Men SS26 / Spring/Summer 2026, Materials take centre stage this season. A portrait of an idiosyncratic place emerges through an abundance of fabrics, coming together in combinations that are both clashing and complimentary. Light twill. Textured mesh. Contra stitched leather. Narrow woven kasuri cotton. Tactility is key. These are things to be held and touched. Specialist treatments are used throughout – stonewash on Japanese denim, resist dyed knits, over-dyed jersey inspired by Yomitan pottery glazes – creating the feeling of items being worn over time and the soft weathering of fabrics through daily use. This season also sees an emphasis on fine tailoring fabrics: loose weave raised-stripe cotton, wools in intricate mosaics and grids, brushed light flannel, fringed jacquard, waved seersucker-like wool. Many of the materials are custom made with the renowned Lanificio Luigi Ricceri in Prato for a unique handle and appearance.

In the venue, pacing mirrors the passage of time. Lighting tracks the course of a day. Garments appear in a softly unfolding chronological sequence that suggests one moment bleeding into the next. The focus is on archetypes with a signature attention to cut and construction, keeping details consistent and considered to allow fabrics to come to the fore.

We start with the relaxed elegance of a morning look: silhouettes inspired by Bulgarian military pyjamas. Abstracted paisley twill. Crinkled floral cotton. Then the functionality and spontaneous assemblage of a work uniform: trousers, shorts and jackets in technical stretch twill; denim two pieces and cotton jumpsuits; striped shirting. The day builds towards refined evening wear and the excitement of dressing up: ruched and cropped blazers, heavily pleated trousers, long coats with K-dart construction. Newly developed made in Japan suiting marks a first for the label.

Punctuating Kiko Kostadinov Men Spring/Summer 2026 / SS26 collection are flashes of incongruity. The appearance of striped ribbed knits, Supima cotton jersey polos, henleys and hoodies. The trusty, sometimes unexpected, things one reaches for in moments of rest and repose. A new shape of fabric bags nod to Bulgarian bagpipes and shepherd pouches. Lightweight flip flops and patterned canvas trainers are joined by fringed leather lace-ups and boots with embroidered toe panels. Asics tabi runners return this season with a gradient-effect finish and 1960s typographic logo. Threaded throughout, on garments, accessories, shoes and jewellery are newly developed steel beads and fasteners inspired by subtropical hibiscus.