Blumarine Pre-Fall 2026 at Milan Fashion

Blumarine Pre-Fall 2026 / PF26 at Milan Fashion

Venetian nights are the fabric of myths: shadowy scenes of debauchery and decadence played out in the labyrinthine city of mystery. For the Blumarine PF26 / Pre-Fall 2026 Collection, Creative Director David Koma mirrors his evolving study of dark romanticism in nocturnal Venice and the photographic history of the House. With nods to Blumarine’s collaborations with Helmut Newton – as well as its Fall-Winter 1992 campaign shot by Albert Watson in Venice – the proposal makes the City of Masks its cinematic muse. In an erotic exploration of the hedonism historically linked to Venetian nights, the dualistic Blumarine woman is absorbed by the eccentric and extravagant spirit of Venice and its ornamental opulence. The collection is painted in the sumptuous and seductive colours of Venetian costume – red, lavender, pale blue – and contrasted by black.

Details of Blumarine PF26 / Pre-Fall 2026, Evoking the dress codes of the masked balls of Baroque Venice, georgette mini dresses and bustiers bonded to crinolines are sculpted in architectonic forms and adorned with a rose-and-thorn print and hardware forged in the lion, mask and rose iconography of Venice and Blumarine. Rendered in three colourways, the motif also animates fluid georgette dresses across long and short silhouettes. A crinoline-bonded georgette dress is garlanded with thread-embroidered micro-roses echoed in slip and long dresses, which also feature in leopard print. With amplified drama, the House’s ruffled poet dresses are structured in crepon with vivacious Chantilly lace inserts and layered with integrated capes around the shoulders. Taffeta halter dresses, skirts, shirts and a full skirt festooned with three-dimensional roses conjure Venetian ballrooms.

Dresses, skirts and blouses in Chantilly lace with crêpe de chine plissé inserts summon a palatial boudoir atmosphere, while blouses and long and short dresses in embroidered lace cut at the centre mirror the lace motif with seductive strictness. The sensuality is underlined in hourglass mini dresses as well as skirts in lace-trimmed duchess silk, and in erotically draped jersey dresses and tops including a long, hooded gown with trumpet sleeves and marabou trims. Leopard-print slip dresses are lasciviously overlaid with lace and tulle bejewelled with crystal embroidery. Puff-sleeved cadi mini dress with thread-embroidered bow or rose cut-outs – and a mini coat, dress, skirt and shorts in plain cadi – bridge the ballroom and the boudoir.

Sculpted wool tailoring mimics the hourglass silhouettes of dresses. A double-breasted jacket is ornamented with three-dimensional plissé roses at the lapel and a little sculpted jacket is dramatised with cocoon sleeves. Tailored cargo bottoms feature alongside oversized trousers as well as a skinny silhouette that covers the heel. Voluminous poplin shirts with plissé bow cuffs capture the memory of 18th-century Venice. A cape, a pea coat and a long coat with a boned back and shearling belt evoke a sense of masculinity echoed in Harlequin-patterned shearling capes and jackets – which also appear in solid colour – nodding at Commedia dell’Arte.

The same argyle pattern features in print over-embellished with sequins on a knitted cardigan, jumper and miniskirt. Knitwear captures the opulence of Venice: an alpaca and wool cape and coat conjure the rose motif in jacquard; cardigans with ruffles and marabou trims feature elegant detachable sleeves and ruffled trumpet cuffs; tops evoke perforation; triangular cardigans, dresses and t-shirts in llama wool create a ruffled silhouette on the body; peplum cardigans, dresses and tops are braid-knitted in viscose; and viscose rib cardigans and scoop-neck tops are fringed with knitted rose leaves.

T-shirts are animated with baby lion motifs as a nod to the mascot of Venice. Gabardine workwear – from a cape, trench coat and jacket to cargo trousers and shorts – is made sumptuous through colourful dyes. Black denim pieces are gilded with metallic sprays, dark blue denim trousers are printed with lace motifs creating trompe l’oeil effects of lingerie shorts and stockings, and light blue denim is adorned with thread-embroidered rose cut-outs. The macro rose motif is likewise interpreted in sequin embroidery on denim trousers and an hourglass dress, while the micro rose motif appears as thread embroidery on grey denim. Stud-and-eyelet bow embellishments ornament jeans, and denim mini-skirts and trousers elongated with black plissé lace panels transform into long skirts and trousers.

Crafted in satin and patent leather, super high stilettos that arch the foot intensify the air of fetish that permeates the collection. Metal jewellery including layered charm necklaces, earrings and belts are ornamented with the winged lions, crosses, bridges and masks symbolic of Venice. Butterfly-shaped masks and mask-like sunglasses nod to the history and mystery of the city, and the emblem of Blumarine.