Blumarine Fall/Winter 2026 / FW26 at Milan Fashion Week

The diva personifies the Italian comprehension of glamour as power. With operatic might, she embodies a seductive spectacle of strictness and softness; of ferociousness and fragility all at once. The Blumarine FW26 / Fall/Winter 2026 Collection paints a portrait of the mythological diva and her many facets through the lens of its own history. Expanding on his ongoing studies of the photographic legacy of the House – with particular reference to its collaborations with Helmut Newton – David Koma revisits Venice in an elaborate exploration of the city’s cinematic and sumptuous spirit. Staging a meeting between its baroque opulence and his own sculptural modernism and ornamentation, the Creative Director mirrors the city in the diva herself. The fusion cuts a proposal of voluminous and vivacious silhouettes rendered in a darkly theatrical palette of red, black, white, silver and gold.

A diva-ish wardrobe takes shape in operatic garments cut with both drama and ease. Evoked in graphics and techniques throughout Blumarine FW26 / Fall/Winter 2026 collection, Blumarine’s emblematic rose takes centre stage. It appears in a red and black print and as a black and white motif emblazoned on taffeta beetle-back capes and balloon-skirt mini dresses. A textural, colourful rose embroidery wraps around a sculpted black vinyl bomber jacket, a black chiffon dress, and black overdyed denim trousers. A rose embroidery in silver metallises a black Chantilly lace dress, a crinoline skirt and a top, while a gold georgette lamé mini dress and shirt are wreathed in plissé soleil rosettes and rose garlands, and a mini dress, top and scarf are forged in rose-printed gold chainmail. A rebrodé lace poet blouse is bonded with gold foil. Roses also take shape within the motifs of Chantilly lace mini dresses, tops and trousers.

Darkly romantic rose petals appear as garlands and ruffles. Sculpted black and red knitted cardigans are festooned with three-dimensional knitted strands of rose petals, which echo in a red crochet over-embroidered mini dress with rose cut-outs and rose appliqué. Frayed petal ruffles adorn crinoline and tier crepon dresses and Chantilly lace tops and trousers. They further embellish the ruff and cuffs of a black bonded crêpe cady mini-skirt suit with baroque cameo buttons in metal and enamel crafted in the images of Blumarine’s rose, butterfly and B logo, as well as the lion of Venice. The same buttons bejewel white and black scuba mini-skirt suits with boned jackets cut in the memory of Harlequin’s silhouette with hand-embroidered macramé collars and cuffs, and a black crêpe cady mini dress with a madonna neckline and crepon petal ruffles.

Evoked in goat hair, the Harlequin diamond pattern named after the Commedia dell’Arte character animates a sweeping black and white floor-length coat and a beetle-back cape with a big bow. A goat hair collar adorns a grey wool coat with sculpted sleeves and embroidered cuffs, while a black Chantilly lace body is framed by a dramatic black goat hair boa, and a black goat hair corset structured in the shape of the Blumarine butterfly is embellished with metal Venetian lion’s head door knockers and crosses. Splicing baroque ornamentation with the metal hardware characteristic of David Koma’s practice, the cameo buttons of jackets expand into latticed cages worn over denim trousers and harnesses worn as tops. They further appear in long and short layered gold metal necklaces alongside crosses and crystal-encrusted bows, and in chokers, rings and earrings. Black and red sling-back pointed pumps in leather or satin are armoured with metal toe-caps and bejewelled crosses.

All images Blumarine FW26 / Fall/Winter 2026 by the brand. PR Purple PR. Credit to: CREATIVE DIRECTION David Koma, STYLING Marc Goehring, SET DESIGN Tom Schneider, HAIR Claire Grech for L’Oréal Professionel Paris, MAKE UP Patrick Glatthaar for Make Up For Ever, MOVEMENT DIRECTION Ryan Chappell, SOUNDTRACK Mode-F, PRODUCTION Without Production.