Rabanne Resort 2027 at Paris Fashion

Rabanne Resort / Pre-Spring 2027 at Paris Fashion

Within a wardrobe, the possibilities are endless. What makes the difference is attitude. For these two collections, Julien Dossena considers how individual pieces can be put together as a reflection of reality, while also emphasising the innate coolness of Rabanne. Pre-Spring 2027 moves through material collisions and combinations that speak to urban dressing – beautiful clothes with city grit. Utility shapes appear in precious fabrics, such as a luminous jacquard three-hole dress with an adjustable waist; a raw cotton ensemble styled like a sleek jumpsuit; and oversized Bermudas, their Skater vibe cut with precision tailoring and offset by a mini faux fur jacket.

The collection embraces contrast, from flea market discoveries like a sandy suede jacket in a varsity volume to desirable essentials, like a summery trench that riffs on a clinical lab coat. Masculine and feminine codes coexist in denim shirting, delicate Liberty-style florals, knitted bonnets and oversized jewellery. There’s a nod to ’90s-era Italian suiting, only here it is deconstructed and layered with blouses, knitwear and overskirts. Trousers are paired with additional garments that blur traditional categories, creating silhouettes that feel simultaneously familiar and new.

The Party capsule continues this relaxed mixing that registers as toned-down, self-possessed. Rather than overt glamour, the focus is on intrigue. Each contradiction feels deliberate, like a girl who leans modernist yet accents her looks with treasures from Saint-Ouen: a crepe dress in deep brown with a monochromatic assemblage that functions like a new kind of fur – rich and a touch techno; a fully fringed mesh skirt cut to reveal the legs counterbalanced with a knit, high-neck top; an embroidered mesh dress in vivid green is worn over black trousers and pumps.

Across both collections, sophistication emerges through directness rather than excess. Set against two different architectural backdrops, the looks are easy yet subtly unexpected, giving off just the right twist, above all, the wardrobe comes through as distinctly Rabanne.