QASIMI Spring/Summer 2027 at Milan Fashion Week

QASIMI Spring/Summer 2027 / SS27 at Milan Fashion Week entitled Undercurrent

“Undercurrent is about How making leaves a mark. Hassan’s work understood that repetition isn’t mechanical — it’s cumulative, and meaning is built over time. That felt true to what we were trying to do with the clothes this season, and what it means to work in someone’s absence rather than alongside them,” Hoor Al-Qasimi

For SS27 / Spring/Summer 2027, QASIMI presents Undercurrent, a collection shaped by labour, process and repetition. Exploring how garments carry the traces of their making, the collection considers clothing as an evolving record of gesture, time and transformation rather than a finished object. Relaxed tailoring, modular construction and material manipulation define the season. Deep pleats structure shirts and outerwear, sheer layers reveal the architecture of garments, and exposed threads, displaced seams and visible construction details celebrate the act of making. Silhouettes move fluidly between utility and refinement, balancing precision with ease.

Undercurrent expands QASIMI’s signature wardrobe of relaxed tailoring, seasonless layering and wearable workwear. As with last season, manual dyes stain relaxed twill tailoring, exposing the marks of the treatment and reinforcing the collection’s focus on process. Classic denim arrives in pleated and barrel-leg silhouettes, worn with ease. The house’s signature check returns in a lightweight modal, while knitwear silhouettes inspired by Khalid Al-Qasimi’s earlier work are revisited through a contemporary lens.

Tailoring is approached from unexpected angles. A poplin shirt is constructed to read as a sweater layered over a shirt without any actual layering. Trousers feature wrap panels at the hip, while rose-coloured shirts are cut with off-centre collars and displaced seams. Airy silhouettes in olive and agave green introduce controlled volume that moves with the body. Undercurrent unfolds through QASIMI’s familiar earth-toned palette. Brown, mocha and camel bring warmth, while agave green punctuates the collection alongside accents of olive, rose dawn and white.

Qasimi SS27 / Spring/Summer 2027 collection marks the first chapter of a two-season exploration inspired by the work of Hassan Sharif, one of the Gulf’s most influential contemporary artists and a foundational figure in conceptual art in the UAE. Developed in dialogue with Sharif’s estate, the project translates the artist’s commitment to process, accumulation and manual intervention into the language of clothing.

Sharif’s practice transformed industrial and everyday materials through repetitive manual actions: tying, weaving, binding and folding objects into dense sculptural forms that challenged conventional ideas of value, labour and permanence. Rather than directly referencing specific artworks, the collection adopts the principles that underpin his work. Repetition becomes construction, accumulation becomes layering and gesture becomes form.

These ideas emerge throughout Qasimi SS27 / Spring/Summer 2027 collection. Shirts are structured through deep pleating, while modular panels shift and respond to the movement of the body. Threads extend beyond hems and seams, revealing the process behind the garment. Sheer panels wrap around the torso, exposing layers of construction beneath. Crochet belts sit low on the hips, their loose threads grazing the legs. One tailoring look is presented entirely inside out, with exposed seams and visible construction lines that reveal the garment’s internal architecture.

The collection also draws on the Gulf’s pre-industrial past, before oil extraction transformed the region’s economy. References to pearl diving and fishing appear through sheer shirts and trousers printed with wave-like textures, reflective surfaces that catch light like water, and open crochet structures that recall fishing nets. These elements sit naturally alongside the themes of accumulation and manual labour that connect the collection to Sharif’s practice.

“Hassan’s practice was rooted in process, material and time. QASIMI’s homage honours that spirit and we are glad to see his work continue to open conversations in new contexts,” says a representative of Sharif’s estate. Operating as both a tribute to Hassan Sharif’s legacy and a reflection on the foundations of the house itself, Undercurrent presents clothing as a record of labour, gesture and time. The process remains visible long after the act of making has ended.