Setchu Spring/Summer 2027 / SS27 at Milan Fashion Week entitled Caught in the Nets.

Setchu SS27 / Spring/Summer 2027 collection evokes a miraculous catch, where the handcrafted finishes and artisanal savoir-faire so dear to the designer take on an entirely new dimension. They envelop the silhouette, at times seeming to follow it. Satoshi Kuwata’s sirens, largely genderless, offer a new lens through which to read the collection, notably through a network of leather cords in various colours, tied using what is known as the “Japanese Square Knot.” Poetic in intent, both fragile and resilient, these nets recall one of Satoshi’s journeys and pay tribute to the abundant fishing grounds found in the waters off Gabon.

Details of Setchu SS27 / Spring/Summer 2027, rectangles of jersey are held in tension by circular cavities that pierce a top or a dress. This unprecedented framework clings to the body—a surprise within the designer’s vocabulary. Openings appear everywhere: a slit that accentuates the asymmetry of a black dress and which, laid flat, reveals its own arithmetic; another conceals a mastery of cut beneath panels of silk whose fastening mechanisms remain partly mysterious. As the world navigates troubled waters, creatures inspired by Satoshi’s travels cloak themselves in scales, in delicate fabrics that form a contemporary armour—fluid, protective, and graceful.

All images Setchu SS27 / Spring/Summer 2027 by the brand. Special Thanks Creative Direction Carina Frey & Stefanie Barth, Stylist Tanya Jones, Casting Julia Lange, Make Up Anthony Preel, Hair Ramona Eschbach, Choreographer Michael John Harper, Music Paolo Tocci, Photography Ilaria Orsini, Text Fabrice Paineau, PR Nathalie Ours / PR Consulting Paris, Show Production Luciano Cirelli, Coordination Leila Palermo