Dries Van Noten Men Spring/Summer 2027 at Paris Fashion Week

Dries Van Noten Men Spring/Summer 2027 / SS27 at Paris Fashion Week

“We started the collection with the desire to make something that feels light and delicate. Early in the process, we stumbled on a book about L’Après-midi d’un faune, The Faun’s Afternoon. The poem by Stéphane Mallarmé, from 1876, tells the story of a dream-like creature, half-man, half-animal, that wakes up from a nap in the woods. In his sleep he dreams of nymphs, sensually dancing. He wakes up in a haze, confused about whether or not this actually happened. In the end, he decides to fall back asleep and ultimately chooses fantasy over reality. I was moved by the haziness the verses depict, by the constant blurring between the real and the imagined and by the fluidity with which the senses and fantasy slip one into the other. Everything around him – the heat, the trees and the sky – feels dreamlike, sensual, and alive. The idea of sensuality guided many of our choices, colours and fabrications, rendering wardrobe staples as clothing that feels soft and intimate. Like a dream that vanishes upon waking up, I hope everything feels loose, delicate, easy to remove, ready to fly away. A tribute to the simple beauty of a rest in nature.” Julian

Details of Dries Van Noten Men SS27 / Spring/Summer 2027, The masculine wardrobe, seen through hazy eyes that just woke up from an afternoon nap en plein air. Tailoring flows and flutters, necklines scoop, sequins shimmer like sunrays hitting a pool of water, colors fade to become one with the skin. The familiar, archetypal staples are fluidified and rethought: a transparent trenchcoat, the parka in washed pongé silk, a hunting jacket with a grosgrain belt or with the sleeves cut off. The silhouette is vertical and soft, with bare legs revealed under short shorts. Transparencies and shimmer. Hunting nods, and the classic country check. Lingerie suggestions -charmeuse silks, spaghetti straps as drawstrings, tanktops weave in hints of undress that carry in the cosmetic palette of blush and earthy tones lit up with nature’s intense greens and blues.

Touches of animalier: a belt, a bag. A focus on the neck: lace and broderie anglaise adorn jersey & knit tops; collars are cut off, raw edge. A pagan and gentle take on camouflage: blooming branches on parkas, t-shirts, coats and slacks. Bleeding prints as memory that fades away; denim bleached in cloudy patterns; Foulards that incite tying and untying. Photorealistic motifs bring landscapes and slices of nature onto the surfaces of garments. Moonlight reflections on a lake are printed on silk to match the black, fluid tailoring meant for after-dark unrestraint.

Fabrics are silk, charmeuse, pongé silk, lightly padded and washed silk, cottons, light wools, watery nylons. Feet are shod in ballerina flats, boots, naked sandals and slender lace-ups. Big and soft bags with matching long gloves provide a supernatural frisson. Found object charms are laid out on little chains like a bird collects what it finds to make a nest: beer capsules, keys and screws mixed with twigs. Dreaminess is made tangible.