Rick Owens Men Spring/Summer 2027 at Paris Fashion Week

Rick Owens Men Spring/Summer 2027 / SS27 at Paris Fashion Week

Rick Owens presented his Spring/Summer 2027 men’s collection entitled STONE MEN, on 25 June 2026 at the Palais de Tokyo in Paris. The collection is rooted in a reflection on how people respond to a world marked by uncertainty and perceived threats. As Owens explains, “We are all processing menace. Some of us arm. Some of us train. Some of us turn away. Some of us turn to stone.” Rather than portraying fear as paralysis, the collection explores resilience, discipline, and transformation, expressing these ideas through sculptural silhouettes, technical innovation, and artisanal craftsmanship.

A central highlight of the collection is the debut of the Adidas x Rick Owens technical running shoe, scheduled for release in 2027. Designed as a high-performance yet more accessible footwear offering, the collaboration reflects Owens’ continued interest in merging avant-garde design with functional sportswear. The partnership also extends to experimental outerwear incorporating Adidas’ Climacool technology. Inflatable jackets and shorts equipped with internal fans, when paired with an ice vest, create a personal cooling system intended to lower a runner’s core temperature before competition, demonstrating how performance technology can be reimagined within a luxury fashion context. Owens also acknowledges Adidas’ environmental commitments, highlighting the company’s recognition on the CDP Climate A List for a second consecutive year. While recognizing that addressing the environmental crisis remains an ongoing challenge, he emphasizes the importance of continuous progress, noting that meaningful change begins with ambitious goals and incremental action.

Rick Owens Men SS27 / Spring/Summer 2027 collection balances athletic functionality with Owens’ signature subversive aesthetic. Classic jogging suits appear in traditional poly-cotton technical jersey but are reinterpreted in lightweight black and flesh-toned leather, as well as nude-colored girdle fabric knitted from recycled nylon in Germany before being dyed and finished in Lombardy, Italy. This juxtaposition transforms familiar sportswear into garments that blur the boundaries between performance, fetishism, and luxury.

Military-inspired epaulettes emerge as one of the season’s defining motifs. Unlike their more forceful appearance in previous collections, Owens believes they feel particularly appropriate for spring, symbolizing authority, trust, and leadership. Drawing parallels with figures such as emperors, airline pilots, and ship captains, removable leather epaulettes are applied to lightweight silk-cotton poplin coats and jackets woven in Italy’s Como region, renowned for its centuries-old silk weaving tradition. Tailoring remains a cornerstone of the collection, featuring sharply defined shoulders executed in compact silk crepe developed with Bonotto, the fourth-generation Italian textile mill established in 1912. Woven from high-twist crepe yarns in Veneto, these fabrics combine technical precision with architectural structure, reinforcing the collection’s themes of strength and control. Volume is explored through oversized cabans crafted from either recycled polyester duchesse or crisp silk duchesse. Produced on vintage looms in Como, these highly structured fabrics require an exceptionally slow weaving process, with only around 25 meters completed each day. This deliberate pace reflects the collection’s broader emphasis on craftsmanship and the enduring value of artisanal production.

The show’s more provocative pieces showcase Owens’ long-standing collaborations with specialist artisans across Europe. Sheer latex tank tops, resembling delicate beaded lingerie, are hand-piped by Paris-based latex artist Matisse Di Maggio, with each garment requiring approximately 35 hours of meticulous work by four hands. Dramatic latex capes are produced by Florence Druart of Torture Garden Latex in London, while the sculptural foam-and-latex tensegrity chaps are handcrafted by Straytukay, another regular collaborator. The concept of tensegrity, originally coined by Buckminster Fuller in the 1960s, serves as both a structural and philosophical reference throughout the collection. Describing systems in which isolated elements under compression are stabilized by a continuous network of tension, tensegrity is found in architecture, engineering, and even the human body, where bones remain in compression while connective tissues maintain tension. Owens adopts this principle as a metaphor for contemporary existence: strength is achieved not through rigidity alone, but through the careful balance of opposing forces.

With STONE MEN, Rick Owens presents a collection that merges technological innovation, environmental awareness, artisanal excellence, and conceptual design into a powerful meditation on resilience. By combining advanced performance engineering with traditional European craftsmanship and deeply symbolic storytelling, the Rick Owens Men SS27 / Spring/Summer 2027 collection offers a compelling vision of fashion as both protection and personal expression in an increasingly uncertain world.