Institution by Galib Gassanoff Spring/Summer 2027 / SS27 at Milan Fashion Week
DAŞ means stone in Azerbaijani. The word also expresses various states of being — nothing is set in stone, after all. A surface can crack. Something solid can change state. A stone can have a sound. For Collection 07, Galib Gassanoff explores structure and construction from a softer angle. The monumentality he is after persists, as does the motherly strictness he associates with Soviet women, but both have been fluidified.
As he continues exploring local traditions that speak of his own roots and culture, this season Gassanoff worked with the kelaghayi (kəlağayı), the traditional Azerbaijani women’s silk headscarf. Usually made by men using block-printing techniques and natural dyes, a kelaghayi is a 150-by-150-centimeter square of fine silk. The tradition of making them is passed down through informal apprenticeships within families. Both its making and wearing have been included in UNESCO’s list of intangible cultural heritage.
Details of Institution by Galib Gassanoff SS27 / Spring/Summer 2027, To work with something rooted in traditional culture, for Gassanoff, means to create a dialogue: remodelling the piece without altering it. The square keeps being square. It is folded, draped, stitched; it turns into different garments without losing its original shape. Specific kelaghayis have been made by artisans in Basgal using traditional ornaments and color palettes. The same principle runs through the collection: a changing of state creates garments from items. Jackets turn into capes. Trousers carry flat apron panels. Topstitching draws construction onto the surface. Backs reveal flashes of skin. Sculptural volumes protect without constricting. Imperfections make things real: a crack, an unfinished surface, and the raw edges of the kelaghayi, obtained by tearing the silk instead of cutting it. Stone. Silk. Weight. Lightness. A piece of fabric. A body. The material speaks. The form listens.
INSTITUTION is a creative project established by Galib Gassanoff to express his personal and aesthetic connection to the cultures he is part of. Operating as a social-artistic organisation with an ethical foundation, INSTITUTION reaches beyond fashion. The name itself references the broader role of an institution: A humanly devised structure of rules and norms that shape and constrain individual behaviour. All definitions of institutions carry the idea of persistence and continuity – values reflected in the work. Galib Gassanoff, the founder and creative director of INSTITUTION, is a Georgian of Azerbaijani descent, raised on the outskirts of Tbilisi, immersed in a world of contrasting languages, crafts, and traditions. At eighteen, he moved to Milan to pursue fashion education and professional experience. He founded INSTITUTION in 2024 as a platform for cultural reflection, community collaboration, and artistic exploration. INSTITUTION is a 2026 LVMH Prize finalist.
At Villa Eugénie, nurturing talented young designers and elevating their creative vision is both a personal commitment of mine and a core mission. Partnering with Galib Gassanoff allows us to bring narrative, space, and vision together, crafting an immersive experience with lasting cultural resonance. Etienne Russo Deloitte hosts the fashion show by Galib Gassanoff, founder and creative director of Institution, at Deloitte Gallery, reaffirming its commitment to supporting emerging talent and fostering dialogue between contemporary culture and creativity. The initiative grew out of an exchange with Fondazione Sozzani and is part of Deloitte’s Arts and Culture programme, which promotes culture as a means of connecting different perspectives and disciplines.
Institution by Galib Gassanoff SS27 / Spring/Summer 2027 by the brand. Credit to Styling Sarah Richardson, Casting Barbara Nicoli and Leila Ananna, Hair by Kisuke Terada using Phyto Paris, Make up by Elena Bettanello, Nails Roberta Rodi, Movement Director Kevin Vives, Composer Etibar Asadli, Videographer Leonardo Casalini, Words Angelo Flaccavento, Italian Press and Coordination Next Agency, International Press Lucien Pages Communication, Leather items crafting and material provided by Lineapelle, The knitwear pieces have been provided by Consinee Group, Shoes have been crafted and produced by Sultana. SPECIAL THANKS TO Creative Direction, Set Design & Production @ Villa Eugénie, Carla Sozzani and Sara Sozzani Maino at Fondazione Sozzani, Deloitte for the location.