The AW2021 collection zooms across three locations: metropolis London, the waterfalls of St Vincent in the West Indies, and the red mists above the deserts of Pakistan. Across these three locations – from the East to the West Indies – to the former capital of the Empire – Protagonists from each are invited to zoom into our London Fashion Week. This film is a ritualistic journey of healing, and coming together, in hope of building a value system that allows humanity and our environment to come first.
Osman co-directed this moving image with artist Zoe Marsden. From St Vincent comes musician and artist Eniye Daisy Kagbala, who lends her voice and gives us a close up of the verdant flora of her Island. From Pakistan, Tabla artist Naresh plays his percussion for us in the deserts of Sind. In lockdown London, trans activist and dancer, Sakeema Peng Crook, leads our ritual as the High Priestess in Hackney – in hope of unity, and healing our humanity and our planet, its conflict, and its over-consumption. Enviye sings of When the Sky was Blue and the Earth was Green, and the Flowers Bloomed, combining this with Osman’s Poem:
I’M COMING A poem by Osman Yousefzada
Bring the dark dust from my feet
Our footprints that intermingled in the past
To protrude forward and create our new cosmos, to heal, to muster up our amulets and potions
To flower and let them feed off me
To germinate and activate my metabolism, to rise each morning when the sun breaks it’s dawn, and each future is new
And when I’m gone… the animals trample over me, and the roots of the plants entangle and sustain off me
When I turn back to see its cycles… its haste… its speed… its consumption… its harm… its humanity…
Enlisting the help, and supporting artisans in Uzbekistan, Osman Yousefzada coats are hand-woven in silk yarns, using traditional techniques. Each coat takes up to 50 hours to complete on a handloom. His artisanal works continue into party pieces, as long dresses, cropped tops and doublebreasted jackets, which are embellished with circular mirror embroidery made in Rajasthan, India. This is juxtaposed with figure accentuating dresses and jackets, that are laced by eyelets. Similar details are to be found down the side of the trousers in organic vegetable dyed leather. The protective hand of Fatima – ‘Nazar’ (Evil Eye) – amulets embedded in hearts and hands, and the revered Pomegranate are embroidered as patches on black wool coats and jackets in metallic Tambour technique, along with glass chandelier components that trim the hems and sleeves of cropped jackets – taking us on a waking voyage of East meets West. The Collection has been made using our concept of Last Yards.
Last Yards is our limited-edition Collection of exquisite pieces created by Osman from fabric he discovered on his inspiration trips. They are all made from the most luxurious fabrics that have already been created. He uses these to make limited runs of styles, ensuring that you own a more unique piece. The more exclusive production means a more individual garment. Each edition will be numbered on the tag to identify its rarity.
All images courtesy of Osman Yousefzada
CREDITS Photography: Hidhir Badaruddin (@thehidhir) Stylist: Ogun Gortan (@ogun_gortan) Make-up: Porsche Poon (@porschepoon) Set Design: Bubby Nurse (@bubbynurse) Hair: Ryo Narushima (@ryonarushima) Models: Akuach Thiep, Sarah Hornby, Jasmine Hussain, Sakeema Peng Crook Casting: Ogun Gortan Jewellery and accessories: Alighieri, Completed Works, Begum Khan Shoes: Gina Shoes, Miista, By Far, Nicholas Kirkwood