The Sun Will Shine On The Assembly Line
For the SS22 studio collection Henrik Vibskov is diving into the universe of porcelain. This is where cracks and broken pieces become beautiful, the old coffee set intriguing, where combinations of old and new put together in new structures becomes interesting and echoes elements, textures and surfaces from nature and traditional craftmanship.
Porcelain is a ceramic material with a myriad of references clinging to it, as it is an ancient craftmanship developed and refined over decades. The material is both strong and fragile at the same time, having a wide range of use, from decoration, arts, tableware, figurines, technology and industry. The pale white lustrous surface talks to your senses and the smooth surface reminds of skin asking to be touched.
The collection is unfolding a distinctive interpretation of the theme. The silhouettes are inspired by shapes of vases and bowls, the prints are dragging lines to systematic machinery and factories, repetitions of tiles, smooth surfaces and porcelain flowers falling apart. Big, quilted coats and skirts are covered with cubic color blocks inspired by the Japanese manual tie-dyeing Shibori technique. The colorful knits are referring to repetitions and combinations of tiles and the custom designed jacquard suit is in a romantic and dynamic print of fragile porcelains flowers. The elegant choice of colors is both subtle and bold; fresh melon, lime green, neon yellow, lavender and pink combined with dark inked blue, burgundy, burned orange, olive, brown and black.
93% of the collection can be considered sustainable, in the way the materials are either of organic origin or recycled. All fabrics and trims are evaluated based on their sustainable qualities, and the choices for the collection are made thereafter. The fabrics include organic cotton, recycled polyester and recycled PET bottles for padding in outerwear, Tencel made from upcycled cotton linter and cellulose fibers, European linen and virgin wool. Certificates include BCI (Better Cotton Initiative) and GOTS, plus Økotex for colors, dyes and prints.
Henrik Vibskov made a film to represent the collection, echoing the tradition of porcelain manufacturing. To the ticking sound of a factory clock, workers unite along the assembly line for a synchronized production performance in the eerie glow of summer solstice. With their bare hands, they are painting and shaping the delicate material. As the production assembles a tall figure takes center stage. White and pale as the porcelain itself, it rises like a monumental tower or a dream, 4 meters high in a long dress. Is it the machinery, the caretaker, the pulse or an imaginary creation born from the manufacturing?
All images courtesy of Henrik Vibskov