Olivier Theyskens Spring Summer 2022 at Paris Fashion Week

In the tranquil colonnade of Palais Galliera, Olivier Theyskens presents 22 silhouettes, which are like paintings, achieving an act of intuitive and affective ‘recyclage’. Resulting from a passionate and privileged year-long journey of research and creation, the collection starts from the idea of a patchwork, a handmade assemblage of bias-cut strips of lace, silk and satin, all fortuitous finds from Theyskens’ personal fabric archive. The timeless, malleable gowns are an exercise in balance, melding simple architectural lines with asymmetrical structures into symphonies of colours.

A kaleidoscope of textures and hues fuse in a harmony of light and reflection. A camaïeu of roses, shimmering changeant silks, flaming red and ultra-pink, a scintillating collage of black and a precious white palette are part of the range of tonalities. An abstract autumnal silhouette sides with a chimeric feather dress in earth-borne tones. Grouped in atmospheric constellations, the silhouettes explore different moods and typologies.

Unseen forms are accented with recognisable Theyskens signatures: long bias evening gowns with open backs, Victorian jackets, mini dresses and corsets.

References include Japanese kimonos and Boro fabrics, worn, mended and ennobled lovingly for the duration of the wearer’s lifetime. The fragility of Egon Schiele’s aquarelles is mirrored in ephemeral blouses in faded pinks and ombré shades that envelop the body. One liquid and transparent composition is reminiscent of Millet’s Ophelia.

Having had the time to select the most exquisite fabrics he collected and surrounded himself with over the years, Theyskens composes new work, sculpting them on the body in a unison of mind, hand, body and garment. A collection speaking of hidden memories, sentiments and intimate gestures.

All images courtesy of Olivier Theyskens

Production : La Mode en Images Music : Lukas Heerich Hair: Odile Gilbert and L’Oréal Paris Consulting : Gro Curtis

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