PEGGED is the new collection from CHLOE BAINES, released in June 2021 as part of the Discovery Lab for London Fashion Week and in collaboration with TONI&GUY. At CHLOE BAINES upcycling is at the core of the brand’s ethos and this collection is no exception. It is a celebration of gender fluidity through experimental fashion as Baines showcases themes of construction wear with electric styling by Pupper Bitch.
Without festivals going ahead during 2020, Baines has explored new fabric options and new collaborations for this project. Each piece is made entirely from upcycled materials consisting of deadstock denim that has been donated from local denim brand, E.L.V Denim. The denim has been combined with fabric upcycled from tents that have either been donated, collected from festivals in 2019, or found in charity shops.
Baines’ interest of gender fluidity in fashion is derived from their personal exploration of gender. Their particular appeal to construction wear stems from its relationship with the hypermasculine. The silhouettes and raw edges pay homage to traditionally masculine boxy shapes and worn-out fabrics in workwear. Surface details and highly polished steel jewellery are made from recycled tent pegs by Birmingham based jeweller, Jemma Bowers. Bowers encapsulates a likeness of tools with her use of rough and organic textures. Despite all of this, elements of styling and production feel much more glamourous, juxtaposing hypermasculinity in the setting and garment inspiration, there seems to be traits of campness throughout. Photography by London based photographer, Bex Aston, explores the performance and movement of each of the models with a graphic compositional approach.
Each garment is handcrafted and produced locally using a range of artisan craft techniques. CHLOE BAINES often collaborates with a range of creatives. A particular technique that is becoming increasingly present in Baines’ work is crochet. Crochet pieces in this collection are made in Coventry by Baines’ mother, Vivien Baines. Other craft techniques that are recognisable throughout Baines’ work include knitting and weaving. Baines continues to collaborate with London based weaver, Alexandra Lucas who has combined fabric and components from tents with denim scraps. This ensures all fabric scraps are used and there is zero waste throughout.
PEGGED, directed and edited by Joe Wood, is a playful depiction of a group of models and dancers who work on a construction site. The film is directed with an ironic and gender fluid narrative in contrast to the notorious machismo in construction work. Sound designer and musician, Benjamin Yellowitz, has creatively captured making sounds from Baines’ studio and voices of the voguing talent to create an enticing soundtrack. Baines’ casting explores community in queer culture. The models secretly pass each other a folder which turns out to be a blueprint plan for the new collection. Each look is showcased when the models are revealed from behind a cage. During the passing of the folder, movement director, Pfion Vince cleverly exposes the personality of each model/dancer, and the viewer learns the connections between some of the characters within scenes of catwalk and voguing – manifesting a mischievous construction site worker narrative.
All images courtesy of Pegged / Chloe Baines
Creative Direction and Fashion Chloe Baines @chlobaines
Photographer Bex Aston @bexaston
Stylist Pupper Bitch @pupperbitch
Hair Styling International Artistic Director Efi Davies @efidavies and the TONI&GUY Session Team Alessandro Barca @barcalessandro & Darja Latt @darschaa using label.m Professional Haircare @toniandguyworld
Make-up Min Sandhu @minnie_mua
Nails Kim G Macias @kimgmacias
Movement Director Pfion Vince @pfionvince
Location The Cause @thecauselondon
Ami Benton @amibenton_
Daze Hingorani @dazehingorani @crumbagency
Raymond Graham @raymondlahart123
Lynne Graham @lynnegraham123
Omar Phillips @discoverbambam
Pfion Vince @pfionvince
Shani Ross @shani_ross7