From a physical perspective MURK FW22-23 is about merging and morphing multiple works from past and present by Justin Gall into his latest unveiling. For many seasons working as an uncompromising independent designer, staying consistent with vision, art, and aesthetic. Here he unloads his constantly evolving world within his first runway show under his signature name.
MURK involves a balance of maximal meets modesty. Details in seam work range from reinforcements to non-existent. Geometric pattern-work strategically and anatomically symmetric. Sharp angles. Rounded corners. Tailoring meets volume. Hidden compartments are effortless yet generous, with invisible zippers disguised as simple seams supplying surprising gifts through storage and portability — without the clutter.
Volumized trousers and outerwear are stuffed with either recycled goose feather or recycled cashmere insulation. All textiles which seam to be leather are vegan. 40% of the textiles are small batch cold water dyed. Knitwear discoloration come from water based paint mixed and applied by Justin Gall.
Brushed faces on multiple textiles give pleasure to the finger tips. Many fabrics have a bit of stretch for a snug but comfortable fitting. Cracks, distresses and embossments are present throughout. Vertical lines run within the collection through brushed cotton corduroy, and an array of different weighted ribbed knitwear.
You’ll find lapel-less blazers and trenches with structured shoulders and minimal hollow snap closures, long length utilitarian parkas, modular jacket carrying straps which are hidden or exposed at ease via an invisible neck zipper, an arsenal of gilets, contrasting textile mixtures, evolved long-length central nervous system cocoon scarves, bushy vegan furs, transformable recoil trousers, layered balaclavas, comfy rear-neck inclinations, invisible hood extractions and more.
MURK (SEASON INCEPT)
The silence of everything while you exist.
A shallow pulse.
The fuzz between your ears.
The unknown of something you know like the back of your hand.
The pursuit of thoughts forgotten.
Inhaling deep, just to breathe.
Slicing a finger only to feel.
Taking the sunshine for granted.
Losing your mind with grace around the corner.
Grey areas met with avoidance.
A forced baptism.
The untold story of an absent father.
A single mother getting by.
Beautiful stories, after death.
The dog whisperer getting bit.
Parking lot meltdowns.
Doing taxes in a nightgown.
All images courtesy of Justin Gall