Homme Plisse Issey Miyake Fall Winter 2022 – 2023 at Paris Men’s Fashion Week

A WORK OF ARC

The HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE AUTUMN WINTER 2022/23 collection A WORK OF ARC premiered online on Thursday, January 20. This collection looks at a tent, as a structure consisting of fabric and a frame, and adapts elements of its construction for clothes-making. The way it engages in making folds and creases like drawing arcs on a pleated canvas gives rise to a new exploration of three-dimensional forms. By experimenting with the fundamentals of making a garment: the way to fold, sew, and pleat a piece of fabric, and studying the relationship between them, the collection develops original silhouettes that surround the body and evoke a presence of a sculpture so lively that it looks like it is about to move.

The video directed by Kyotaro Hayashi brings out qualities and character in the garments that are yet to be discovered. His bold camerawork and captivating direction look at each garment slowly as a piece of artwork from many angles and varying distances. By choreographing the orientation and the pairing of a variety of scenes, including floating the cast in the air, the video conveys the beauty of the garmentsʼ sculptural forms.

ARC is inspired by the form of a tent, when it is held up by curved poles. The folds of large arcs made in the pleated fabric become the structure of the gar[1]ments, giving a sense of fluidity and roundness. This series features a top and a jacket with arched folds going around the body from the back down to the cuffs, and pants with the folds wrap[1]ping around the legs.

BOW is inspired by the natural bow-shape of a tarp stretched over and across a tent. In the form of a garment, a piece of fabric is laid loosely over a silhouette that fits the body, creating the negative space between the fabrics. The three-dimensional construction becomes more apparent when looking at the garment from the side.

LANTERN is a print series that expresses the light of a lantern glowing through a tent. It is a composite of many delicate pastel drawings depict[1]ing the subtlety in the gradient between light and dark tones. The series is available in bold colors that convey a sense of warmth.

Made with fabric woven with elastic yarn in weft, FLIP COAT features a soft and crisp texture in a simple silhouette. The hem can be folded up to the shoul[1]ders and fixed with straps, turning the coat into a light, voluminous jacket

FRAME COAT is a padded outwear series that looks at the making of a tent. The design integrates the framework of a tent into its garment construction that is created with a matte-textured fabric in a tent-inspired color palette. For a differ[1]ent silhouette, the hem can be adjusted by using the drawstrings in the interior.

Available in bright colors, the MONTHLY COLOR SEPTEMBER series fea[1]tures a new coat style inspired by the three-dimensional design of a tentʼ s fabric. The triangular form lends itself to a loose, voluminous silhouette, created by bringing two adjacent corners of a rectangular piece of fabric towards the center, leaving no folds under the arms.

DECK’N COURT is the fifth series of the shoe project between HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE and WAKOUWA. The low-cut design for this season features thin piping and perforated details on the shoe tongue. The shoes are available in two colors: white for a clean and simple look and brown for an understated style.