Alessandro Vigilante Spring Summer 2023 at Milan Fashion Week

ATTO IV – SS 23 – BODY LANGUAGE

ALESSANDRO VIGILANTE’s SS23 collection, in its FOURTH ACT, is entitled BODY LANGUAGE and draws inspiration from contemporary dance as always.

The body expresses itself through movement, creating a unique, intimate and highly communicative language, made up of minimal, almost imperceptible or broad and precise gestures, repetitive or instinctive, controlled, liberating, contracted, relaxed, continuous, fluid, explosive.

Movement replaces speech and becomes the only language. The naked skin, uncovered through measured windows on the body, created by subtracting centimeters of fabric, tells of physical effort, muscular tension, ecstasy, enjoyment, anger, surrender.

The body is free to move nimbly in the ample and oversize volumes of jackets and trousers, or thanks to bodysuits, catsuits and dresses capable of becoming a second skin.

The color palette explores skin-tone shades, lit by fluorescent orange and illuminated by chalk and ivory; graphic black alternates with blue, this season’s star color.

The collection underlines the Brand’s DNA by reinterpreting its distinctive features: the contrast between masculine and feminine is found in the rigorous tailoring suits, cut from hyper-feminine leotards.

Iconic blazers such as the oversize Pina Bausch and the backless Carolyn Carlson are renewed in materials such as crisp linen in natural tones of nude and chalk, structured poplin and cotton with a striped pattern in relief.

The season’s novelties are the Marie-Agnes Blazer and the Aurelie Blazer-body, both presented in compact jersey and in latex-effect coated fabrics, opaque or shiny with a wet effect, always dear to the brand.

They are two tailored, graphic, structured yet feminine blazers; the first leaves the shoulders and underbust uncovered thanks to straight, graphic lines reminiscent of triangles; the second is both blazer and bodysuit, very comfortable and close to the body; it frames the back with soft lines, revealing bare skin.

The tailored trousers are abundant, relaxed, like the jogger with the banana leg and the new very high-waisted trousers, with anatomical seams in the hip area and vase pockets to highlight a thinned waist. The classic skinny trousers are enriched with the brand’s iconic round slit; this time positioned at the bottom to reveal the instep.

New cargo trousers, ankle or below the knee, in Japanese technical nylon or lingerie mesh, enriched with many drawstrings and lingerie details; they are worn with the crop-top-bra in lingerie mesh and transparent jersey.

Blazers are also cut from sharp, mid-calf skirts with a rounded slit or with the new low-waisted miniskirt, with asymmetrical flaps, in the same fabrics as the jackets.

Leotards are as always, the protagonists; this season they are enriched with draperies that wrap and caressthe body in an unexpected way, inspired by Madame Grès, famous for her minimalist draping technique.

The dresses, flowing and sagging, semi-transparent or structured, design the body, highlighting the waist, neck and shoulders and uncovering parts of the naked body from time to time. This is followed by the draped flaps of leotards but with different final solutions.

The skirt flaps of dresses this season become free and asymmetrical.

They are all constructed through skilful draping of bias fabric, never forced but rather going along with the natural fall of each fabric; their peculiarity lies in the fact that the draperies remain in tension and go along with the body as they are built on an underlying bodysuit.

The season’s embroidery is graphic and artistic: triangles resembling the brand’s initials, the A and V, in blue or nude mirror, dance on cut-out tops and asymmetrical skirts.