In the Spring Summer 2023 collection Des_Phemmes continues on the path of analysis and dialogue of the relationship between individual and clothing.  The body becomes a place for dialogue and the garments the words of this conversation: the function of clothes is no longer to “cover” the body, but to communicate between two individuals, who show affection and love by giving their own head to the other, as a show of affection concrete, on the one hand it is the transfer of oneself, on the other, integrating it into one’s look is acceptance and sharing of this affection.

The inspiration of spring summer 2023 collection for the garments in the collection comes once again from those worn by people from the life of designer, and proposed by him in the collection to share something personal and intimate, a memory, offering them to the world in their original “forms”, but in a Des_Phemmes key.  They are gifts of love and memories broken down but to form a collection, for a wardrobe built from garments from different stylistic periods and untied from a specific trend.

Many garments are therefore born from the personal wardrobe of the designer and his affections, but they are freed from theirs gender value and find free interpretation on people of all sexualities, to complete a process no gender that leads DES_PHEMMES to also appear in the menswear world: different garments come “Lent” to the male hemisphere and different looks are interpreted on both men and women, in a total freedom of gender, in which the body in the broad sense becomes the central protagonist in this operation, is indeed the body that defines the silhouette of the garments and not vice versa.

 The simple silhouette of the garments from Des_phemmes spring summer 2023 contrasts with the excess treatment of the surfaces, embroidered and worked, in a constant operation of opposites that talk to each other and complement each other, debate, like the hemisphere masculine and feminine, different yet indissoluble and necessary to each other.

The jacket of one’s partner or father enters the women’s wardrobe and becomes it, the suite in grisaille it is covered with embroidery and is worn in its purity by the model, while only the jacket is worn on the model with a bathing suit underneath becomes a stylistic element unrelated to her belonging to gender.  The leaders are words that tell their way of being, without conditions or constraints of gender or of ideas.

 The masculine garments are integrated while keeping the shape pure but revisited in more feminine materials, with embroidery typical of the brand, such as men’s shirts in embroidered tulle.  The men’s boxer is always present under the trousers and denim and is tinged with eclectic pastel shades, becoming a symbol of this born wardrobe from the meeting of two hemispheres, deprived of the value of underwear and transformed into an accessory.  The gray of the masculine grisaille contrasts with cute sorbet colors that develop on all surfaces, from denim very light chiffon washed.  Workwear-inspired garments are offered in more feminine materials and covered by a shower of Swarovski crystals, such as macrame.

Des_Phemmes proceeds to complete his metaphorical journey, through the cornerstones of an aesthetic that does not wants to change the signifier but does not give up looking for new meanings, which celebrates the feminine hemisphere and that sensitivity that inevitably contains within itself a magnificent idea of ​​precious fragility, which it becomes even male without any prejudice. An open invitation to embrace your own personality and that of others, without censorship or preconceptions.

About Des_Phemmes Presentation

 The presentation of the new collection of the brand is a project conceived and conceived together with the director Francesco Coppola. The director followed, filming with a foreign eye to this world, the designer and his team during the realization of the lookbook of the new collection, and observed that in the rhythm of the work they were repeated, for the entire duration of the preparation, actions and gestures as in an orchestral loop: models walking constantly undergoing look tests, the constant use of the telephone and social media by everyone, the tight fitting on models and the spasmodic search for perfection in small adjustment gestures.

 Through this vision of Coppola, the presentation project was born, a visual and immersive experience in through the eyes of the director, the show and the parade are not placed in the foreground, but rather the presentation, which becomes a way of telling the reality of the people who work behind the “show” make it possible.  The attention is focused on the preparation and its recurring gestures.  It comes like this filmed the backstage of a show that never happened, and it doesn’t matter.

 To underline this detachment between real and “metaphysical” on all the walls of the exhibition space are backstage moments are projected, making the people who work with the designer part of the “show”.

 The designer’s collaborators are friends and people who are part of his daily life and the will to take them back in carrying out their roles is a way to recognize the value that has contributed to the brand of get to the current level.  The result is therefore an immersive experience that allows the viewer to be participates in the creation of the project and to live those moments that are usually not usable.

 The wall where the models are dressed reveals the atmosphere of the collection, the game in which the models are played and the models exchange different items of clothing and it is thanks to this exchange that they are born the look icon collection.

All images courtesy of Des_Phemmes

PR Agency Cup Studio