Ahluwalia SS24 / Spring Summer 2024 entitled Acknowledgments at LFW/London Fashion Week. An ode to unsung heroes past and talents present.
For Ahluwalia’s Spring Summer 24 collection, entitled Acknowledgements, Creative Director and founder Priya Ahluwalia’s research led her on a journey of creative rediscovery. Delving into the history books across music, film, art, fashion and social justice, Ahluwalia unearthed the works of makers, doers and thinkers whose names are harder to find credited and whose achievements are lesser known, particularly artists and creatives of colour whose cultural erasure is all too common.
Beginning with the work of Baya Mahieddine, one of Algeria’s most celebrated artists, Mahieddine is famous for the iconic work that would inspire Picasso to paint a collection called Women of Algeria. As a self-taught artist, Baya Mahieddine retained the connection to ‘tribal’ art that so fascinated the Western world, and actively rejected any form of classification, instead drawing on personal memories and experiences. Another source of inspiration was actress Madhubala.
A Bollywood legend, whose life mirrored Marilyn Monroe, she died at just 36 years old but was ranked as one of the highest-paid entertainers in India in the post-independence era, which coincided with the rise of Indian cinema on the global stage. Madhubala was predominantly active for only a decade but had appeared in over 60 films by the time of her death in 1969. The work of LGBTQ liberation activist and drag queen Marsha P. Johnson, who was one of the prominent figures in the Stonewall Uprising in 1969, helped shape gay rights as we know them today.
Found mercilessly slain in 1992, she was more recently immortalised by way of a guerrilla bust statue in New York’s Christopher Street park when modern day organisers grew tired of the city’s lack of involvement or approval.
The work of the above and countless others materialises in the energy, effervescence and enduring spirit of the collection. Illusion knitwear and tonal jacquard techniques presented across cardigans, tank tops and one-shoulder dresses challenge the observer to look closer, to see things you may have at first missed. The flower motif seen weaved across button down shirts, knit separates, ruched mini-skirts and shorts, a nod to the colloquialism of ‘giving someone their flowers.’ Rich hues of magenta pink, lapis and earthy ochre are the colour backdrops for front pleat trousers andfour-buttoned double breasted suits for men.
For women, soft silk viscose dresses are cut close to the body, and come short and mid-calf and floor length, embellished cowl neck gowns in burnt orange and red are cause for celebration. Innovation continues across Ahluwalia’s signature denim pieces, pioneering fabric innovators ISKO’s CTRL+Z fabric was used to create the flower motif denim showcase throughout the collection’s jeans and jackets. Known to most computer users, Ctrl+Z is about ‘going back,’ to restart. This development contains no virgin cotton and uses a minimum of 60% recycled materials and the remainder is regenerated cellulose fibres while still giving a look and feel identical to traditional denim and speaks to Ahluwalia’s ongoing commitment to sustainable design and business practices.
The continuation of shoes from their inaugural Autumn Winter 2023 season are continued for Ahluwalia Spring Summer 2024. Playful interpretations of a Chelsea boot are offered in lime green and blue zebra as well as traditional tan. Tasseled loafers are presented in reclaimed denim and a deep azure for men.
For women, floral embossed calf-height boots with heels sculpted with ‘A’ into the wedge shape find their place alongside a lace-up leather mule in a chartreuse, red, and classic black that complete the collection. Sunglasses, made in collaboration with Ace & Tate, are showcased in four frames directly from the Ace & Tate Spring Summer 2024 collection, inspired by Ahluwalia’s distinctive universe and patterns complete with the brand’s signature ‘A’ on the glasses hinges. Available in limited quantities, these unique eyewear pieces will launch in Spring 2024 at select stores and online.
Ahluwalia SS24, the show’s venue, the famed British Library, was intentional to the theme of acknowledgments. One of the world’s greatest research libraries, the British Library offers unparalleled access to the world’s largest and most comprehensive research collection, which exceeds 150 million separate items representing every age of written civilisation and includes books, journals, manuscripts, maps, stamps, music, patents, photographs, newspapers and sound recordings in all written and spoken languages including over 4 million digitized collection items.
Much of the research and development of the collection happened at the British Library as well as Ahluwalia’s central London studio. This collaboration, with a focus on the importance of research in the design process will continue through an innovative British Library x British Fashion Council competition for fashion students across the UK. As a part of this competition students will create fashion portfolios inspired by the Library’s unique collections.
The Spring Summer 2024 collection is a continuation of the constant conversation between Ahluwalia the woman and Ahluwalia the brand and invites and emboldens its wearer to create their own lasting legacies.
About Ahluwalia
Multi-award-winning label Ahluwalia was launched in 2018 by Priya Ahluwalia. Ahluwaliarepresents the intersection between near and far, past and present. The label combines elements from the designer’s dual Indian-Nigerian heritage and London roots. It explores the potential of vintage and surplus clothing by giving existing material a new life through various textile and patchwork techniques. This means that many Ahluwalia pieces are one of a kind. Inspired by art, music and
literature, much of the work created by Ahluwalia go beyond her collections and include collaborative campaigns, books and films. Ahluwalia is deemed as a pioneer in the fashion industry and is regularly featured in press from all over the world, from the New York Times and i-D to Vogue and many more. Ahluwalia is available in renowned stores worldwide, including Matches Fashion, Browns, Bergdorf Goodman, Ssense and Nordstrom.
www.ahluwalia.world @ahluwalia
Credits
Brand: Ahluwalia
Creative Director: Priya Ahluwalia
Stylist: Nell Kalonji
Casting Director: Troy Casting
Hair Stylist: Issac Poleon
Barber: Dexter Johnson c/o Toni & Guy
Makeup Artist: Mata Marielle
Manicurist: Simone Cummings
Production: Little Giant Production
PR: Karla Otto
Words: Lynette Nylander
Show looks Photographer: Matt Miller
Runway Photography: Jason Lloyd Evans and Stefan Knauer
BTS Photographer: Philip Banks
Video: DUCK Productions
Soundtrack Design: Tom Tripp
Priya Ahluwalia would like to extend loving thanks to the creative team, Madhu Ahluwalia, Femi Akinrinde, Jade Gonzalez, Elshadai Rumbidzai Gore, Solange Ting, Jack Hargreaves, Anais Obenson, Sanjula Bodaji Thangkhiew, Nicky Balogun, Amarachi Awujo, Rachel Ahonaruogho Brodie, Dylan Dixon, Kemi Odutola, Liv Copeland, Tim Quadri, Louise Nindi, Sami Ambrose, Julia Terrey, Rachel Connolly, Melat Matusala, Ando Jimenez, Tara Tang, Honor Dangerfield, Precious Greham Johnson, Imaan Ash, Fariha Yassin, Harry Fisher, Billy MacKean, Alice Harrison, Kai Hsiung, Martin Roker, Richard Nicholas, Becky Bishop, Ajay Singh, and the British Fashion Council.
As well as our sponsors The British Library, Ace & Tate, RSA Films, Blackdog, Toni & Guy, Byredo, ISKO & DENTS.