SETCHU FW24 at Milan Men Fashion Week

SETCHU FW24 at Milan Men Fashion Week with title THE LIMINAL SPACE WHERE IS BORDERLESS .

SETCHU Fall Winter 2024, The concept, like in the art of Origami, starts from the paper. The designer uses his hands to interact with it.

From this gesture, three areas are created: a flat untouched one, a creased one and the “limen”, that uncertain liminal space where everything is possible. Like the concepts at the core of SETCHU – timeless design, sartorial handmade elements, playful functionality – they come together on paper as well as in the collection: paper gives the informations.

When the material enters the project, it becomes essential to the design itself. Texture is the element that trasforms an item into a SETCHU item. The different light absorbtion on leather, suede, cotton-silk and nylon for SETCHU FW24.

Tartan mohair, soft and structured. Wool twill gabardine with an extra thick thread, crafting deep ridges.

Tailored silk with a bold surface, like an Obi. Paper and recycled sugarcane fibers that create a superlight denim, virtually eternal. Everything is mixed: textures, references and colours – different shades of the same brown, pastels as a reminiscence of childhood and SETCHU bright blue.

Details of SETCHU Fall Winter 2024, Authenticity always comes through mixing, nothing is pure. In that liminal space the items are both dressy and sporty. Like the tuxedo with a jacquard cashmere cloth that you can machine wash, fits like a fleece and dresses perfectly for a formal occasion. The cashmere hoodie with side zippers to modulate temperatures. The black elegant coat that feels like a formal jacket. The paper Oxford collarless shirt is crafted in Okinawa and handstiched to perfection in Italy to keep you cool in summer and warm in winter. Premium quality materials for a timeless design.

This SETCHU FW24 brings in new accessories. The SETCHU bag, crafted in lambskin, comes in two sizes and can be stored flat and fitted to the content through a careful construction with folds and cuts. The thin strap can be used on the wrist, as a crossbody or on the waist, like a belt.

“You don’t need to overdesign. The approach is really going back to something classic, finding something new. That for me is also Playful Functionality.”

ABOUT SETCHU

Satoshi Kuwata has extensively travelled Japan and the world, gathering a unique know-how on many different visual traditions. Having lived in Kyoto, Paris, Milan, London and New York, he developed a unique approach to chic, permeated with a profound knowledge and respect for different cultures and kinds of craftsmanship in all of their shapes and forms.

He himself is the perfect embodiment of SETCHU’s style philosophy: dressing with substantial doses of refinement whatever the context. His personal taste has been sharpened by years at both the helm of international design studios as well as in his roles as a creative director.

A career that saw him working with Givenchy, Edun, Kanye West, and Gareth Pugh – while developing an eye for sharp tailoring at institutions like H. Huntsman and Sons on Savile Row in London. A fishing enthusiast, he will dress with the same esprit whether in a studio in Milan or when fishing in Gabon.

Satoshi Kuwata is the recipient of the 2023 LVMH Prize.