Ahluwalia FW24 / Fall Winter 2024 at London Fashion Week entitled Reveries. A collective journey of recalled wonder.
Feelings of mysticism, memories of fables and realms of mythology– Reveries is dedicated to the trading of wisdom found in the old Indian and Nigeria folklore and fairytales that Creative Director Priya Ahluwalia heard in her formative years and in turn, how explorative storytelling of the past encouraged her modern reinterpretation.
Delving into an imagined world, Ahluwalia began her research with cautionary scripture based on the African and Indian continents, in particular ‘The Prince Who Wanted the Moon’ and ‘How the Leopard Got His Spots’ . Traditional and contemporary artists who explore the realms of mythus within their work were closely researched, such as Jayasri Burman, a leading contemporary female artist based in New Delhi, the late Laxman Pai and Raja Ravi Varma, who’s famed for the fusion of Indian iconography and European academic art.
From Nigeria, the work of Kelechi Nwaneri, who explores deities and characters from Igbo stories was closely analyzed. The mythical world of Indian gods and the symbols that usually are found illustrating their legacies were also a genesis for the collection. The recurring elements found in their pages include decorative trees, birds and moon and crown motifs which were incorporated into merino wool and felted yarn knitwear and recycled viscose and organic pique separates at the heart of the collection.
Print design references the body painting technique specific to the Igbo people. According to local Nigerian mythology, the practice developed as a gift from Ala, the goddess of Earth, who blessed women with the ability to create art, as demonstrated through the creation of Uli, the tradition of drawing tattoo-like designs on the skin. This special connection between the traditional body art and mythology is woven into the collection’s tapestry.
Through gathering visuals of traditional clothing in both Indian and Nigerian culture, Ahluwalia drew inspiration for silhouette and technique which proposes solutions for the Ahluwalia wearer for both day and night.
Ahluwalia FW24, there is a strong focus on the technique of draping, inspired by the traditional dress of Indian saris, as well as the gele, a traditional Nigerian cloth which women wrap around their heads. As a nod, the collection features hooded dresses in deep red, orange and green and top and skirt separates in deep aubergine and azure that drape fluidly across the body.
Details Ahluwalia Fall Winter 2024 such as thin contrast insert panels within the drape, further elevates the design. Knitted bodice tops and mini dresses have thin ribbed panels as design elements to accentuate the curve of the body, inspired by the shape of corsets. Gems, pearls, and sequins in almond formation on terracotta tailored trousers and its accompanying blouse with attached hood are a nod to the regal characters found in traditional garments of both countries.
Choli tops specific to the Vedic era, a period in the late Bronze Age and early Iron Age of the history of India, and their signature cutout details are references across womens and mens jackets, shirting and dresses and fabric accents wrapped onto menswear shirt and zipped track jackets and looped into dresses.
For Ahluwalia FW24, Ahluwalia partnered with Levi’s® on three specially crafted looks made from reworked denim supplied by Levi’s®. “Levi’s® reimagined by Ahluwalia” the pieces sculpt the body and are representative of symbols found in the collection’s research.
The gown is inspired by visual artist Ayanfe Olarinde’s Genesis. The resemblance to wings reflects the mystical element explored throughout popular fables. The corset detail of the women’s look resonates with the exploration of royal dress and the men’s look is composed of an ensemble of an oversized tailored trench coat, blazer and jeans with wave panels that reflect the fluidity of fantasies and stories.
For footwear, the Chikari wave leather boot comes in black, pink and brown suede and the nameplate detail Atasa loafer in orange and green leather are a mainstay for men. Ahluwalia’s own signature denim remains central for Ahluwalia FW24, this season accented by an ombre diamond motif reminiscent of a twinkling midnight sky. For millinery, Ahluwalia collaborated with Ett Hem London on a trio of headpieces to further bring to life the collection’s mysticism and magic. Each bespoke piece incorporates a selection of Ett Hem London’s faux foliage and florals, challenging the classical compositions of traditional floristry through form and function.
Reflecting the concept of storytelling, the show is broken into chapters, with characters interwoven throughout its unveiling. Backdropped by the show’s historical and atmospheric venue, Central Hall Westminster, and an ambient and transcendental soundscape, masterminded by Tom Tripp, Reveries presents a singular version of an Ahluwalia fairytale.
VIP Guests Fall Winter 2024 : India Amarteifio, Kai-Isaiah Jamal and Munya Chawawa, Clara Amfo, No3ts and Ghetts, Tigerlily Taylor, Nia Archives and Jordan Stephens
All images Ahluwalia FW24 / Fall Winter 2024 by Ahluwalia
Credits to
Brand: Ahluwalia
Creative Director: Priya Ahluwalia
Stylist: Nell Kalonji
Casting Director: Troy Casting
Hair Stylist: Issac Poleon
Makeup Artist: Mata Marielle
Manicurist: Angel My Linh
Set Design: Julia Dias
Production: Little Giant
PR: Karla Otto London
Words: Lynette Nylander
Runway: Stefan Knauer and Olivier Caisse
Backstage: Philip Banks
Video: DUCK Productions
Soundtrack Design: Tom Tripp
Priya Ahluwalia would like to extend loving thanks to the show’s creative team, Madhu Ahluwalia, Jade Gonzalez, Femi Akinrinde, Elshadai Rumbidzai Gore, Solange Ting, Jack Hargreaves, Anais Obenson, Kiara Oluyole, Sanjula Bodaji Thangkhiew, Nuha Dhorajiwala, Megan Alloh, Jacques Hu, Rebecca Halpenny, Icy Pasika Kavanna, Tamara Cojuhari, Suzie Hall, Tim Quadri, Louise Nindi, Sami Ambrose, Jade Taylor, Julia Terrey, Rachel Connolly, Ando Jimenez, Tara Tang, Marta Lopez, Alexandra Rogawski, Macy Richards, Honor Dangerfield, Precious Greham Johnson, Imaan Ash, Tianna Greham, Fariha Yassin, Tarnya Wright, Harry Fisher, Billy MacKean, Alice Harrison, Olan Collardy, Kai Hsiung, Martin Roker, Richard Nicholas, Becky Bishop, Stephanie Isaacs, Amel Belkacemi, Temar Biratu, Joshua Sellars, Harriet Oakman, Sylvie Freund Pickavance, and the British Fashion Council.
As well as our sponsors Levi’s®, The Bicester Collection, RSA Films, Blackdog, Ett Hem Ltd, Diptyque, FALKE, ISKO and Central Hall Westminister.
About Ahluwalia
Multi-award-winning label Ahluwalia was launched in 2018 by Priya Ahluwalia. Ahluwalia represents the intersection between near and far, past and present. The label combines elements fromthe designer’s dual Indian-Nigerian heritage and London roots. It explores the potential of vintageand surplus clothing by giving existing material a new life through various textile and patchwork techniques.
This means that many Ahluwalia pieces are one of a kind. Inspired by art, music and literature, much of the work created by Ahluwalia go beyond her collections and include collaborative campaigns, books and films. Ahluwalia is deemed as a pioneer in the fashion industry and is regularly featured in press from all over the world, from the New York Times and i-D to Vogue and many more. Ahluwalia is available in renowned stores worldwide, including Matches Fashion, Browns, Bergdorf Goodman, Ssense and Nordstrom.
Https://ahluwalia.world @ahluwalia