Stem Spring Summer 2025 at Copenhagen Fashion Week

Stem Spring Summer 2025 / SS25 at Copenhagen Fashion Week

On Monday, 5th August, 2024, Stem launch Edition 3: the third collection for SS25 of the Copenhagen-based brand’s exploration into handcraft and industrial weaving. Underpinning Stem founder Sarah Brunnhuber’s dedication to sustainability, the 6-piece collection explores a blend of high-tech and low-tech in its approach to zero-waste garment construction. Merging technique and form, ‘The Pulling Collection’ embraces distinctive asymmetrical fringes and meticulous woven structures, elements that have become central pillars of Stem’s visual language.

Pushing the boundaries of the loom, a cornerstone of Stem Spring Summer 2025 / SS25 collection is ‘Pulling,’ a novel weaving technique developed by Brunnhuber over the past two years. This innovative method, akin to smocking, gathers fabric to create volume and shape, combining digitally woven material with hand-knotting. It stands as a testament to the enduring value of handcraft at a time when such skills are becoming extinct. Edition 3 challenges the fashion industry’s shift towards automation by celebrating a measured approach to production.

Brunnhuber designed Stem Spring Summer 2025 / SS25 collection via an exploration phase of two years, in which she developed the ‘pulling technique’, handwoven samples of which will be displayed in the installation. Brunnhuber then began the translation to wearable garments by carefully observing how they would drape, form and fall on the body. The garments, designed together with design assistant Mathilde Mortens and woven in a mill in Bergamo, Italy, are the latest addition to the evolving Stem wardrobe, coming to life through hours of pulling and knotting back in Brunnhuber’s Copenhagen studio, each silhouette informed by the technique.

Details of Stem Spring Summer 2025 / SS25, Sustainability is at the forefront of every decision Brunnhuber makes. This encompasses the raw materials (only working with certified natural fibres), the production techniques (zero-waste & pulling technique), to sharing Stem’s production story through its pieces. The fabrics convey visual information that the wearer can learn from: how many pattern pieces make up the garment, how much material would have otherwise gone to waste and what does a sleeve look like. All of this manifests in a Stem fabric, adding to our understanding of how our garments are made and the necessary commitment required to manufacture quality clothing.

“There is currently such a disconnect between what we see in a store or runway and all the steps that have happened before, a big part of my work with Stem is trying to visualise and share that process.” – Sarah Brunnhuber, Founder of Stem

Selected by Copenhagen Fashion Week as a ‘One To Watch’ designer, Brunnhuber has developed an immersive experience to present Edition 3. In honour of the ‘Pulling’ collection, the Stem team will be pulling and knotting live throughout the presentation. Models move through the space, interacting with the installation that showcases Edition 3’s draped fabrics and looks – available in different colours – styled with pieces from Editions 1 and 2. Handwoven samples also be on display to illustrate Stem’s material process and highlight the fabrics. Emphasising creative collaboration, one of Stem’s guiding principles, Stem Spring Summer 2025 / SS25 collection be featured in an installation by the design duo CHRISTIAN + JADE. Additionally, Stem has partnered with Troentorp Clogs, renowned for their timeless design and craftsmanship, to feature their handcrafted clogs, a staple since 1907.

About STEM, Founded by designer Sarah Brunnhuber, Stem is a clothing brand based on an innovative zero-waste production system. The name “Stem,” derived from the word “system,” highlights both the production system Brunnhuber has developed and a flawed fashion system the brand is persisting to challenge and disrupt.

The system is made up of three key components: a weaving technique that combines pattern pieces woven directly on the loom with a characteristic loose-weave structure, a cutting technique which utilises the entire fabric and so eliminates the industry standard of 15-25% off-cut waste, and a sewing technique that creates signature fringing — an aesthetic reminder of the fully transparent production story. Each Stem garment is made from (recycled) natural fibres and produced using this system.

Edition 1, a two-piece collection, laid the groundwork for the zero-waste technique. Edition 2 marked the first collection driven by material and technique exploration, similar to Edition 3, focusing on reducing synthetic blends in clothing. Collaborating with Berlin-based yarn research studio HILO, Brunnhuber developed an Elastic Wool to create 100% woven wool stretchy garments. Alongside the editions, brand collaborations have been central to Stem’s work since the brand was founded in 2021. Opportunities to bring Stem’s unique production technique to both emerging and established brands – including a collection with Ganni in June 2022 – demonstrate the breadth/flexibility of Brunnhuber’s weaving and technical explorations.